for dry mead. Used in many award winning meads. Low foaming with
little or no sulfur production. Use additional nutrients for mead
Temperature Range: 55-75°F, 13-24°C
Alcohol Tolerance: 18% ABV
Temperature Range: 55-75°F, 13-24°C
Tolerance: 18% ABV
1/23/2013 -- Im a Home brewer, and i make a very Unique Mead/ Metheglyn. For my Best type of mead i use redstar ale yeast a very typcal yeast, but i was wondering if a cider yeast would give my mead a good profile that focuses on the Honey and herbs that uses while keeping a uniquely dry but sweet flavor. would this cider yeast give what i desire or would you recommend another yeast?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Flavors are hard to describe, but easy to identify upon tasting. Your perception is probably different than mine. But that said, have you tried the Wyeast Mead Yeast (both sweet and dry versions)? Links to products are given below.It sounds like you prefer beer yeasts in your mead. One that I would like to try is the Safbrew T-58. It is known to give a spicy character to beer. Don't see why it wouldn't in a mead. (link below)
3/18/2012 -- a friend of mine is using a bread yeast to make his mead is this gona produce a good wine or should he use some thing else
Response From Homebrew Heaven: That is really a bad idea in my opinion. Particularly when there are quality mead yeasts available. Those are liquid cultures known to produce quality meads.Some dry wine yeasts are also favored by mead makers. See below for links to the favorites.
10/14/2010 -- How fast is Lalvin D47? I've been making mead with Champagne yeast that leaves a strong yeast taste and can take 6 months to finish.The Premier Cuvee Wine Yeast sounds like another option for a cleaner taste. How does it compare in speed. Or is there a beer yeast that would be quick and still clean tasting?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The relative "speed" of yeast strains depends on many factors other than the strain used. Typically, the champagne yeast would be fast acting and neutral in flavor profile. Perhaps there is something else going on..? D47 yeast would usually be slower than champagne yeast, but a good choice nonetheless.Premier Cuvee is about the same speed as champagne yeast, but a reliable fermenter. Similar flavor to champagne.Why not try a MEAD yeast? Wyeast Dry Mead Yeast #4632 would be my choice for a dry tasting mead, while Wyeast #4184 is my clear favorite for a mead with some residual sweetness.I would not recommend beer yeast for champagne, especially if you are after higher alcohol levels.
11/18/2008 -- I was researching mead and i stopped by a local meadery and he said for a five gallon batch that primary would probably take between 2-4 months and the entire process will take a year. is this true? Does leaving sit too long in primary damage it? Thank you i love the QnA pages
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Making mead takes patience, clearly, but putting a time on it like your local fellow is just not possible. How long will it take? It depends on the fermentation temperature, the amount and quality of the nutrients added to mixture, the amount and quality of the honey itself, the type and quantity of yeast, and probably 100 other factors. We have seen some meads take that long. We've also seen some that are done inside of a month. It is possible to damage mead (and beer and wine) by letting it sit on dead yeast, but you would have to leave it a VERY long time. I've never seen it happen. A good "rule of thumb" is to transfer it after hydrometer readings are reduced to about 1/3 of the starting reading. And then tranfer again (if needed) after THAT is reduced to about 1/3. Usually that will finish it out.
11/9/2008 -- I know it is recommended to use yeast starters, which I do when making beer. Normally I use DME to make my starters, but this time I am making a mead and am worried that DME might alter the flavor. Can I use priming sugar instead of DME (if so how much)? Or will DME be just fine? Thanks for the help.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, corn sugar could be used, but why not use a little honey? I think that is a better choice.
8/1/2008 -- HI, I would like to try to make mead. Do I need to buy a "Beer Kit" and do you sell instructions for this? I have only made whiskey with a still. Beer and mead making is COMPLETELY NEW. Please help with some info and tell what I need to buy. Thank You,,,Paul
Response From Homebrew Heaven: A great way to get started in making mead is with these two products:Nectar of the Gods Mead Kithttp://store.homebrewheaven.com/Product550This is the ingredients, instructions etc to make a nice traditional mead. For the equipment, we recommend our 5 Gallon Complete Wine Making Kit. It has all the hardware...fermenter, test equipment, corker etc that are common to both wine and mead. Here is a link to THAT product:5-Gallon Complete Wine Making Kithttp://store.homebrewheaven.com/Product289Of course we have several books on mead making as well in our Mead Making Categoryhttp://store.homebrewheaven.com/Category40If you are ALSO interested in making beer, much of the same equipment can be used for beer as well. About the only thing you'll want to add is a bottle capper and some caps.
5/2/2008 -- I've brewed four of your beer kits with great success, thank you. I live in New York City, and with summer approaching I’m sure the temperatures will be well above 75. Is there a something, perhaps wine, that will ferment properly at higher temperatures? I’m predicting between 80 and 85 degrees. I’ve heard Mead might, but the one Mead I’ve tasted was too sweet for my taste. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes! Red wines and meads, especially, are fermented warm. Cabernets, Merlots, Pinot Noirs etc etc work out nicely. Meads too!Don't let the fact that your first (and only?) taste of mead was too sweet for your tastes. Mead can be made dry as well. With our Nectar of the Gods Mead Kit you actually sweeten to taste (if you like) AFTER fermentation. It comes out pretty dry if you choose not to re-sweeten.
4/29/2008 -- We tried this mead kit and loved it. Now we want to try a cyser. A lot of what I have been reading says to rack/bottle once it clears up. Do you have any guidelines for how long meads/cysers should ferment? Thanks for the help.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: In short, no.Here is the thing...MANY MANY MANY factors play into how long a fermentation will take. Here are just a few:Sugar (honey) concentrationStrain of yeast usedFermentation temperatureNutrient level presentType(s) of nutrientsTemperature variations during fermentationAmount of yeast usedMineral content of water usedAmount of oxygen present in your mead prior to adding yeastViability (freshness) of yeast culture usedAnd lots of others!The point is, there is just no way (in advance) to know for sure how long it will take. You can monitor along the way using a hydrometer, and that will give you a pretty good indication, and will tell you when it is actually done and ready to bottle.I CAN tell you however, that if you used our Nectar of the Gods Mead Kit and substituted some quality apple cider in place of the water used, it will likely ferment in a little LESS time, due to the presence of the nutrients in the cider. That is a popular thing to do. It will add some nice apple flavor! You can also use a little cider to re-sweeten your mead/cyser at the end of the process. Be sure you add the stabilizers prior to doing this.Enjoy!
1/26/2008 -- I live about an hour (if traffic is good) from the address on your website. Do you have an actual store or is everything here based solely online?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, we have an actual brick-and-mortar store in Everett, WA. People actually walk in and buy stuff!Our address is:Homebrew Heaven9109 Evergreen WayEverett, WA 98204Here is a video of our shop: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1a5fKvv8XIHeck, you can actually call us on the phone, too! It's 425-355-8865. A person will actually answer as long as it's business hours!
1/24/2008 -- what kind of yeast would you recommend for hydromel(also refered to as mead?)
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Why not a mead yeast? We have two available in the Mead Making category. Here is a link to those products:http://store.homebrewheaven.com/Category40
11/5/2005 -- I am interested in making both non-carb and carbonated mead. What sort of kit should I get and what is the difference in kit requirements between the two types of brews?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Our Nectar of the Gods kit can be used for both. With the carbonated mead, however, you do not use the stabilizer (potassium sorbate) after fermentation. Instead of that, you add about 3/4 cup corn sugar and bottle immediately.
10/11/2004 -- I've made a pyment (mead with fruit) using homegrown grapes. The grape concentrate was added to the honey-water mixture towards the end just long enough to pasturize. Mead nutrient was also added at that time. Once the mixture was forced cool (75-80 degrees F), the Wyeast Sweet Mead Yeast Package was added. It had been swelling for about 12 hours at 70-80 Degrees. Now the Mead has been in the fermenter for 4-1/2 days. I'm only getting about one bubble per hour on fermentation. Is this normal or is the yeast dead, or are there other problems? very familiar with the vigorous fermentation of beer, but this is the first try on mead? Should I wait and see or try to repitch the yeast again? Any help would be appreciated.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Mead is nothing like beer, it is often SLOW SLOW SLOW to ferment. It sounds like it is working, just slowly. Get used to it. It may continue like this for months. Repitching won't help, but more nutrients may.
6/4/2004 -- I have a 55-gal food-grade plastic drum, the kind Pepsi uses to transport syrups in, that I was considering making a large batch of mead in. I was also hoping to mostly store said mead in this handy barrel, and tap it out by the mug at a certain festival for a wee mountain of profits and many a joyous smile. Are there any extra problems associated with large batches, or with this type of storage that I should perhaps be made aware of? I'm guessing that I can pastuerize one batch o honey and pitch the yeasts in it while I do the rest, is there any problem to such a piece-meal approach? thanks- soon to be locally famous
Response From Homebrew Heaven: It's a handy vessel, sure, but there are some problems.Usually, you have to transfer the mead to a secondary fermenter (at least once) to get rid of the crud in the bottom, and to help clarify it. You would need at least two barrels.Also, dispensing mead or any other beverage from the barrel has a problem. As it is dispensed, you would be introducing air into the barrel, causing it to go bad well befor drinking it. You would need a CO2 setup to keep it fresh, and away from oxygen.
3/17/2004 -- what is mead???
Response From Homebrew Heaven: A drink made from fermented honey. Yum! It has a long, interesting history.
3/10/2004 -- What is the difference between a dry mead yeast and a sweet mead yeast?? Also if you make mead with a basic wine yeast will it turn out ok?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Both mead yeasts are actually liquid cultures. The dry mead yeast finishes out with a less residual sugar, so it is less sweet than the sweet mead yeast.Yes, many fine meads are made with wine yeasts. The true mead yeasts, however, seem to accentuate the honey flavor more than the wine yeasts do.
2/16/2004 -- It has been about 4 days since I mixed the ingrediants and put the mead into my primary fermentor and I have not seen any evidence of fermentation. It is rather cold where I live (50-60 degrees) and the mead is in my shed. Will this ruin the mead or just take a really long time to ferment before I can transfer it to the carboy?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: There is no harm to the mead, but yes, it will take a very long time to ferment. Mead likes it warmer than that. We have a supplemental brew heat pad that would work nicely for applications like this. Here is a link:http://www.nexternal.com/hombre/?Target=products.asp&ProductID=1129
2/4/2004 -- About how long will I have to wait before I can drink my mead?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Mead is one of those drinks that just gets better with age. Figure 6-8 weeks to ferment it. After that, we recommend at least 3 months aging...BUT if you can stand to wait a year it is much better. Try putting a few bottles aside from each batch so that you always have some well aged mead on hand!
12/28/2003 -- Hi, I recently received a "Nectar of the Gods" kit. I'm planning to make the mead in the next day or two. In going over the kit components I noticed that there are two packets of dry yeast (both the same). Do I use both packets even though the label says one packet is sufficient for 5 gallons?Thanks for your assistance!
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, go ahead and use both packets. Mead is slow to ferment, and this extra addtion helps somewhat.
10/24/2003 -- I just like to say that I enjoy making your mead kits. I have made "gallons" of it and it never last long. My friends drool over it. The best thing that I found out is to disolve the honey in all the water or juice before I put it my fermenter.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Thanks for the kind words about our kit. We like it too!
10/21/2003 -- I have recently started my first batch of mead using the Wyeast Sweet Mead Yeast. After combining the Honey,water and mead blend and allowing the mixture to cool to 75 degrees I pitched the yeast. Unfortunately there seems to be little or no sign of fermentation after 7 days. Is the reaction less obvious than when brewing beer or is my fermentation stuck? If so, is there any way you would suggest to jump start the yeast? I have been told that mead will occasionally need Epsom salt to ferment properly????
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Mead is known to ferment very very slowly, and especially so when using the liquid yeasts. The fermentation is nothing like beer at all. It may be fermenting, but if it's in a bucket, it may be giving off CO2 at about the same rate that the bucket leaks. Hard to say.The mead blend actually contains a little bit of Epsom salts, but there is no harm in adding a little more. I would give it a try, and make sure that the fermenter is kept warm (at LEAST 68 degrees. 80 is probably better).
10/18/2003 -- If I wanted to make a cyser, and used your Nectar of the gods mead making kit, how much Apple Fruit Wine Base would I need? If I don't need the full 9.5 lbs., could I divide it between batches?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I would use about half of it. You could use the whole can, but you can expect your cyser to be very strong, and sweet if you do. If you divide the fruit base, be sure to seal up and refrigerate the unused portion.
10/16/2003 -- What equipment do i need besides the mead kit to make mead?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: If you want to make a traditional (still, non-carbonated) mead, we recommend the Wine Making Equipment Kit. If you are looking to make a carbonated mead, the Intermediate Equipment (Beer) Brewing Kit is a better choice.
8/27/2003 -- The XL pack of Wyeast Dry Mead Yeast is sufficient for ten Gallons of mead. If I am going to make five gallons of mead do I still use the whole pack or part of it?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I would use the whole package. There is no harm in doing so. It will start fermenting faster, is all. Besides, unless you have an absoultely sterile way of storing the "leftover" yeast, it will be useless anyway. Don't worry, using additional yeast will not impart a "yeasty" flavor. It only grows to the point of consuming the sugars that are present, then dies off.
8/26/2003 -- I received my dry mead yeast package (liquid yeast)on 8/25. I am not sure when it was sent. Although it was wrapped in a "cold pack" it came to me very warm. Did this cause any harm to the yeast? Also, I am going to make five gallons of dry mead. Could you give me some basic instructions on how to use this yeast?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The frozen gel pack should have kept your yeast cold for MOST of the trip. Yours should be fine. There may be minor harm to the yeast, but that is unavoidable. For good inormation on use of Wyeast liquid yeast cultures, visit http://www.wyeastlab.com/education/edinfo.htmYou will find basic instructions on the package itself, but in a nutshell:1) using your hand, find the inner "pouch" within the outer package. It will just feel like a small lump.2) put the package on a flat, hard surface and using your fist to "smack" the small inner pouch. It should rupture with a quick "smack". Pushing on it doesn't do the trick. A quick impact will.3) massage the pouch a little to mix the yeast (that was in the inner pouch) with the nutrient within the main pouch.4) leave at room temperature until the pouch swells up to at least one inch thick. This can take about a day for each month old the package is. The manufacture date is stamped on the edge of the package.5) after the pack swells, add to your mead. It will likely take a day or more to shows signs of fermentation. If you want it to take off faster, follow the directions for making a "step up" culture (starter) from the above link. Enjoy!
8/22/2003 -- I am going to make my first attempt at making mead. How important are campden tablets in this process and how do I use them?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Campden tablets (sulfites) have two uses when making meads. They are often used prior to fermentation to kill (or at least stun!) wild yeasts and bacteria. If you do this, allow 24 hours before adding yeast. This is less important if your honey is pasteurized, of course. If your honey is "wild" I would use them for this purpose. It is either that, or boil your honey/water mixture, and of the two options, I would prefer using campden tablets.Another use of campden tablets is when you bottle your mead. I would definately use them, and potassium sorbate, just prior to bottling. This ensures longer storage life (important for meads) and keeps your mead from getting "fizzy" in the bottles. Hope this helps!
8/5/2003 -- I'm attempting my first batch of mead (or anything for that matter), and am having a great time, but have a few questions. When I'm ready to bottle my mead, is it better to cork it into wine bottles or can I cap it into 12oz. bottles? In either case, how much head space should I leave in the bottle? Do I need to do anything else before or after putting it into bottles (heat or cold pasturization etc.)? If I screwed up anywhere along the way and introduced bacteria, excessive O2, or anything will I be able to taste the problem?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Glad to hear you're having fun with it. So do we!A traditional mead (like our Nectar Kit) is treated like a wine...corked into wine bottles. You CAN however put it into beer bottles if you like, however. If you are making a sparkling (carbonated) mead, I would definately use strong beer bottles and caps. For corks, leave about 2"-2.5" headspace and insert the cork. If you are using the bottle filler from our kit, just fill it all the way up, and remove the filler. It will leave the right headspace automatically.The only thing you need to do at bottling time is to make sure your bottles are sanitized. Iodophor or a sodium bisulfite solution works well for this.It's unlikey that you have screwed up badly. Let's face it, people have been making mead for thousands of years with much less knowledge and equipment than you! The kit is designed to be easy, we hope you find it so. About the only thing that could really go "wrong" would be due to a lack of sanitation. If your mead has fermented, it has sufficient alcohol to take care of bacteria etc., so I would just relax, and enjoy. Try a bottle of "fresh" mead, but be sure to put some away for aging. You'll be glad you did!
7/12/2003 -- Sirs,I make a tasty lemony pilsner beer.My equipment is geared to the five gallon batch.My brother,a viking buff saw you'r mead kit over my shoulder and asked if I could brew a batch as mead is very prevelant in Celtic lore.Will my beer equipment suffice to do you'r kit. Andyes I do Know my spare fermenter will be tied up as mead usually takes longer.Thanks A Heap!!
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, it will work just fine. It's very easy to make, it just takes longer than beer.
6/30/2003 -- I am a novice home brewer and recently purchased a Mead Kit. I followed the directions and everything looks to be ok. Within 8 hours, I could hear the CO coming out. My only question is: Right now, all the honey has settled tot he bottom. Is this correct or is there something I chould be doing to get it off the bottom?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: This is correct. Don't worry, the yeast will "seek out" the honey and go to work on it. It takes some time, is all.
6/25/2003 -- I am a novice when it comes to wine making. I am about to get started however, and need some advice before placing my order.I plan to make "Mead" for my first batch. Other than Item "H24" in your catalog, do I need to order the Mead Blend or Mead Yeast, and if so, which yeast. I will also be ordering complete kit. I believe the mead kit will make five gallons, but many of the fruit wine concentrates make six gallons. Would I be safe in ordering the WK3 with 6 gallon carboy, or will the six gallon size be to large for 5 gallons of mead? Does the H24 come with full instructions?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I would probably go with the 5 gallon wine equipment kit and when you want to make the 6 gallon wine kits, get a 6 gallon carboy at that time.The H24 Mead kit has everything you need (including the mead blend) to make it.Sometime it can take a few months, especially in cooler weather, for the mead to ferment out. So when your mead is in the carboy you could start another batch of, lets say wine, so you not just sitting there waiting for the mead to finish.
6/11/2003 -- Since I've had a few successful batches of wine made (my friends think so) I was wanting to know does this kit come complete or is there any other additional equipment or ingredients I need to purchase for this..Thank you
Response From Homebrew Heaven: This kit provides all the ingredients, as well as instructions, for making a great mead. It does NOT contain any equipment, or bottles. If you have been making wine, you probably have the necessary equipment.
is currently empty