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Homebrew Heaven’s Wizard’s Wheat
*********************************
Approximate Starting Gravity: 1.044 - 1.052
Approximate Ending Gravity: 1.010 - 1.014
Approximate Bitterness: 11 IBU's
Approximate Color: 7 SRM
Approximate ABV: 4.3 - 5.6%
*********************************
AVAILABLE: JAN thru
DEC
*********************************
Ingredient Kit
Instructions:
This Beer Ingredient Kit makes 5 gallons of heavenly
homebrew. This is equivalent to about fifty-two 12 oz. Beers. Only
the finest ingredients are chosen and used in the making of this
kit. Should you have any questions regarding this kit, Homebrew
Heaven of Everett, WA will be happy to help you out. Our phone
number is (425) 355-8865 (local), or (800) 850-2739 if you are
calling from out of town.
Wizard’s Wheat is a light straw colored, tangy beer
that is similar to that made in Southern Germany. It is somewhat
cloudy, with a spicy, clove/banana flavor that is characteristic of
this beer style. Wheat beers are wonderfully refreshing on a hot
summer day. Often they are served with a slice of fresh lemon for a
bold, sharp taste.
This Kit Contains:
1 Package of Wheat, Dry Malt Extract with Bittering
hops (Hallertauer) already mixed into the dry malt
1 Package containing Crystal Malt (Specialty Grain),
along with a cheesecloth grain bag 1 Package of Flavor hops
(Hallertauer) with Clarifier Tablet
1 Package of Finishing hops (Hallertauer) 1-2
Package(s) of Ale Yeast – 10g minimum
1 Package of Corn Sugar that is used to “prime” the
beer just before bottling
Equipment and Sanitation:
It is necessary to assure that EVERYTHING that comes in contact
with your ale wort after boiling is sanitary. By this, we mean free
from bacteria and other wild yeasts. Your brewpot, spoon and wort
chiller (if using one) will be sanitized by the boiling of your
ingredients, but from that point on, your fermentor, carboy,
airlock & stopper, etc., should be sanitized thoroughly. We
recommend an iodine-based product called Iodophor for this
purpose.
We also recommend that your fermentation be done in
a sealed container with an airlock affixed to it (closed
fermentation) to avoid airborne bacteria. A sealed six-gallon (or
larger), food-grade bucket works great as a fermentor. If you add
water to your fermentor after the boil, it’s usually OK not to boil
it, but if you want to be absolutely certain of avoiding bacteria,
you can boil it ahead of time (be sure to cool it before using).
Always sanitize your siphon equipment (bottle filler, racking cane
and tubing) and bottles prior to bottling your beer. Bacteria
infections are rare, but most originate from the siphon
equipment.
INSTRUCTIONS
General Note: It is best to cook your entire batch of beer (6 – 6.3
gallons starting volume of water for a finished batch volume of 5
gallons after evaporation & trub removal). If your brewpot is
not big enough to do that, you can do a “concentrated boil” using 3
– 4 gallons of water to start with, adding the balance of (cooled)
water volume to the primary fermentor before pitching the yeast. In
other words, boil as much water as possible to start with. We
recommend using at least 3 gallons.
1. Add the water to the brewpot. We like to start
with about 6 gallons. See General Note above.
2. Put the specialty grains into the muslin grain
bag & tie a knot at the top of the bag. Leave some room for the
grains to “swish around” within the bag. Suspend the filled bag in
the water to avoid scorching, or burning a hole in the bag &
heat to between 165º F - 170º F. Be sure to occasionally give the
bag a light squeeze & use a teabag motion to help swish things
around a bit. When the water reaches 165º F - 170º F, remove the
bag…it has done its’ job. Exceeding 170º F will cause tannins to
leach out of the grains, which can make your beer
astringent.
3. Continue heating until the water comes to a boil.
Now it’s time to add the dry malt extract. You will have to add the
contents slowly while stirring to mix. We like to remove the
brewpot from the heat for this step, to prevent the malt from
scorching at the bottom of the brewpot. Dry malt takes a while to
dissolve into the water. Just keep stirring until the entire amount
of malt has been emptied into the pot.
4. Now, bring the mixture back to a boil and make
note of the time when you have achieved a good rolling boil. You’ll
be boiling your mixture (now called wort) for one-hour total time
from this point on. This one-hour boil ensures a good breakdown of
the malt & hops. Ideally, you’ll maintain a nice rolling boil
(not too vigorously now) for the entire time. It is ESSENTIAL that
you WATCH FOR BOIL OVERS at this stage. Your beer will not be
ruined, but a boil over makes a BIG, STICKY MESS! Keep stirring the
green stuff (hops) back into the boil as they like to stick to the
sides of the brewpot.
5. At 15 minutes before the end of the boil (45
minutes after the start of the boil), it is time to add the package
of Flavoring hops and Clarifier Tablet. This addition adds a unique
flavor and aids in clarifying your finished beer. If you are going
to be using a wort chiller to cool your finished wort, you should
place it into the brewpot for the last 10 – 15 minutes of the boil
to sterilize it.
6. At 2 minutes before the end of the boil (58
minutes after the start – or so…), add the package of Finishing
hops. This addition provides a wonderful aroma to your finished
beer.
7. At 60 minutes from the start of the boil, turn
off the heat and cool your wort as quickly as possible. The best
way to cool your wort is with a wort chiller. If you don’t have
one, you can set your brewpot in a sink full of ice water. A wort
chiller will cool your wort in a bout 15 minutes, whereas the “sink
full of ice water” method takes at least an hour, so leave the lid
on the pot to avoid airborne bacteria. If you boiled less than 5
gallons, you can add cold water to help cool your wort. The point
is, cool it quickly, keeping the pot covered if
possible!
8. When you wort has cooled to 80 deg F, or below,
it’s time to pour it into your primary fermentor. Go ahead and
splash your wort in order to aerate or “oxygenate” your wort at
this point. Yeast “like” a little oxygen at this point ---- but
never after. Don’t worry about the residue. It is protein and hop
residue (called “trub”). Now you should take a “starting gravity”
reading (approx.1.044 – 1.052), using your hydrometer and test jar.
If you record this number, you can use it to determine your actual
alcohol per volume at bottling. After pouring the wort into your
primary fermentor and taking a hydrometer reading, you can add
(“pitch”) your yeast. When using the dry yeast that came with the
kit, either stirring the yeast into the wort, or sprinkling it on
top will work just fine. We usually just sprinkle it on top. While
you can make a yeast starter following the directions on the yeast
package, it is not necessary. Be sure to put a tight sealing lid on
the fermentor & use an airlock.
IMPORTANT NOTICE – PLEASE READ ACTIVE
FERMENTATIONS:
When brewing conditions are ideal; fresh malts and /
or grains, good boil, well oxygenated wort, correct pitching
temperature for yeast, fresh yeast, and consistent fermenting
temperatures, the fermentation can be very active. Large amounts of
malts such as you find in higher gravity beers, can also result in
an overactive ferment. When this happens it is not uncommon for
your wort to exit out through your airlock usually clogging the
airlock causing pressure to build up inside your fermentor. If the
pressure builds too high before primary fermentation subsides, the
lid and / or airlock on your fermentor can very well blow off,
spraying your precious beer all over the room & ceiling. What a
messy clean up!!! To avoid this, we advise using a “blow off” tube
consisting of at least 3 feet of ½” minimum to 1” diameter tubing
placed through the opening of your plastic or glass fermentor in
place of your airlock and rubber stopper. Do NOT extend the tubing
end too far into the fermentor. Leave at least 2” between the end
of the tubing & the fermenting wort. Place the other end of the
tubing into a small container of water. A pint or 2 of water should
do. Once fermentation has subsided (little or no bubbles in your
container of water) you can remove the tubing & replace the
airlock & stopper for the remainder of the fermentation. Be
sure to clean & sanitize your airlock & stopper as well as
the tubing.
9. At this point, it is best to keep your fermentor
at about room temperature (65 - 75) until you see some activity
(bubbling) in your airlock. This may take from 8 – 36 hours with
dry yeast. Be sure to fill your airlock halfway to provide a
barrier between your wort and potential “invading” bacteria. The
ideal fermentation temperature is between 65 - 75 deg
F..
10. How long can you expect the fermentation to
last? That depends on temperature, the freshness of the yeast and
many other factors. At room temperature, the fermentation may take
place in 2 – 3 days. At a cooler temperature, it may take 2 – 3
weeks. These are only estimates. In any case, wait for the bubbling
in the airlock to slow down to perhaps one “bubble” or less, per
minute (again…only an estimate) before transferring the beer to
another container (Typical gravity readings at this point would be
between 1.020 – 1.030). This is called a “secondary fermentation”
and serves to clarify and “condition”, or age your beer. Homebrew
Heaven likes to use a glass carboy for this step, although another
plastic bucket will do just fine.
11. Transfer the beer by siphoning off the clear
beer leaving all the trub (crud) behind. There is no need to strain
out the trub – leave it in the bottom of the primary bucket. Give
it to your garden, compost, or just toss in the garbage can. We’re
after clear beer here, remember?
12. After the bubbling has completely ceased in your
secondary fermentor, it is time to bottle your beer. Make sure
there is at least 3 minutes between each “bubble” through your
airlock before bottling. A more sure method of determining if it is
time to bottle would be to take 2 or 3 consecutive hydrometer
readings, 1 each day for 2 – 3 days. When your readings stay the
same without changing (“ending gravity” reading approx. 1.010 –
1.014), it is time to bottle. This ensures that there is no
residual malt left to ferment. You will be adding corn sugar when
you bottle in order to provide the right amount of carbonation. If
there is still malt extract to ferment, you could have
over-carbonated beer, or worse yet, exploding bottles.
13. To bottle, siphon off the good stuff – clear
beer, into another sanitized container. Your primary fermentor
works fine for this. Next, stir the package of corn sugar into
about 16 oz. of lukewarm water until it dissolves. Add this mixture
to the beer and stir gently to mix. Siphon your beer into
sterilized bottles, leaving about ¾” of headspace in each bottle
and apply your caps to the bottles.
14. Your beer will be ready to drink sooner if you
place your bottles in a warm (room temperature) place. Allow about
7 - 14 days before trying one if you do this. If you leave your
bottles in a cool place (60; any cooler & your beer may not
carbonate properly) you should allow an extra week or so. Be sure
to store your bottles out of direct sunlight, or it will get a
“skunky” smell if you do. Your beer will get better and better with
aging, but who can wait? Enjoy! You can make more,
right?
We sincerely hope you have enjoyed your Wizard’s
Wheat kit! Let us know what you think!!
Variations:
1. If you like a pronounced clove/banana taste, try (strongly
recommended) using the Wyeast 3068 (Wheinstephen) liquid yeast
culture (available at Homebrew Heaven) in place of the Nottingham
Ale Yeast. This leaves your beer a bit cloudy, in the Hefeweizen
style, but greatly enhances the flavor. Other strains of wheat
yeasts are also available – German, Belgian and Bavarian. Each
imparts a unique taste to a wheat beer.
2. Try using 1.5 cups of wheat or light DME (available at Homebrew
Heaven) in place of the corn sugar when bottling. This will add a
little more malt flavor and give your beer a creamier, dense head,
however doing this can greatly increase the time it takes to
carbonate. This can be done with any beer.
Homebrew Heaven
9109 Evergreen Way
Everett, WA 98204
(425) 355-8865
(800) 850-2739
E-mail: brewheaven@aol.com
Average Rating: (From
25 Reviews):
Read Complete Reviews
|
Submit a Review
Great Summer Beer
From
Michael Powell of
Sandy, Oregon
on
8/31/2009.
First Batch came out Perfect!
From
steve sawyer of
aurora, Colorado
on
5/15/2008.
Wizard Wheat : Nice and clean
From
Ed Williams of
Colorado Springs, Colorado
on
4/28/2008.
Wonderful Flavor
From
Anonymous of
Reno, Nevada
on
4/25/2008.
First brew turned out great!
From
David M of
huntsville, Alabama
on
3/6/2008.
Wow!!!
From
Jason of
Jacksonville, Florida
on
2/23/2008.
wizards wheat
From
Darryl Stonecypher of
Johnstown, Pennsylvania
on
1/27/2008.
A real treat
From
Kenneth Mayer of
Cameron Park, California
on
11/7/2007.
Splendorious
From
Dave Banker of
Flora, Illinois
on
6/10/2007.
This is a KEEPER!
From
Ed Jaro of
Raeford, North Carolina
on
10/17/2006.
Beginner's Choice
From
Jeff Gricewich of
Visalia, California
on
7/14/2006.
Great Brew
From
Joseph G Leiby of
Fremont, Ohio
on
5/30/2006.
Good beer to drink early
From
Michelle of
Pensacola, Florida
on
5/21/2006.
I CAN'T TELL YA!!!
From
Michael C. DeStories of
Wantage, New Jersey
on
3/23/2006.
This beer goes with everything
From
EricM of
Dickinson, North Dakota
on
2/6/2006.
Excellent Kit
From
Nat Reeder of
North Augusta, South Carolina
on
9/28/2005.
Love that wheat beer.
From
Travis Ball of
Half Moon Bay, California
on
6/14/2005.
Like Magic!
From
Jeffrey of
Rochester, New York
on
6/7/2005.
Make more kits!
From
Travis Ball of
Half Moon Bay, California
on
4/10/2005.
Highly Recommended
From
Mike of
Marysville, Washington
on
3/11/2005.
Killer first brew
From
Calvin Lindsey of
Mission Viejo, California
on
2/23/2005.
Highly Recommended
From
Doug Sharp of
Pagosa Springs, Colorado
on
9/15/2004.
JUST GREAT
From
Doug Sharp of
Pagosa Springs, Colorado
on
7/14/2004.
Very Good with Yeast Upgrade
From
C. Carpenter of
Bothell, Washington
on
11/22/2003.
Enjoy tremendously!
From
Dan of
Sunnyvale, California
on
5/12/2003.
Read Complete Reviews |
Submit a Review
Read Complete Questions & Answers
|
Ask a Question
3/15/2010
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I just brewed Wizard Wheat. The yeast took right off... about 3 hours after pitching. (That is a record for my homebrews.) My question is this: Do I need to put the wheat beer in a secondary fermentor? I want the beer to be cloudy and I usually don't put my ales or lagers in the secondary fermentor. Is a wheat beer any different? Is the trub different from an ale or lager? What is your advise?
Thanks! . . .
2/18/2010
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I have my stout in the primary, just about to transfer to the secondary. I added oats to the boil and am thinking about putting some coffee and a vanilla bean into the secondary. What would be the best way to do this and do you think it would be too much??
1/8/2010
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I am currently brewing my first batch of beer --wizard's wheat- and I have a question about adding honey. I see that it's OK to add during the boil and in the primary fermentor, but I'm ready to move it to the secondary because it's been about 3 days and the bubbles are few and far between. Is it still OK to add honey at this stage? If so how much?
12/9/2009
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I saw this question asked somewhere on your site but after searching for it again, I cannot find it.
In the suggestions for the St Peters Pilsner, you say adding a lb. of honey to the last 2 minutes of the boil will add flavor and increase alcohol content. Can you do this with any of the kits (specifically the Wizards Wheat), or just the St Peters? Also, approx. how much will it increase the alcohol . . .
9/3/2009
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Is it possible to hop a bock beer more to give it a more balanced taste? and if so which hops would give such a end result? P.S. not a computer savvy guy, e-mail address is my wife cut me some slack on the name.
8/20/2009
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I just got back from a trip to Evensville, where my brother in law took to me to a brewery. He got me to try a Hefeweizen. While i am more of a liquor man,i can now say i love a beer.I would like to come as close to this as i can.It was a very cloudy "unfiltered" spicy and slightly fruity beer.I am going to purchase the Wizards Wheat with the wyeast 3068.
My questions are 1) is it ok . . .
8/1/2009
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I just finished my first batch of wheat beer and have transfered it to the primary, it's been about 28 hours and i've only noticed about 1 bubble per minute in the airlock. Is the yeast doing it's job or should I add another packet? Also a solid layer of sludge has formed on the surface of the beer, is this normal? Cheers!
7/5/2009
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I just put my Wizard Wheat in the primary fermentor. I really like the cloudy/unfilterd type Hefe's, will the original procedures make it this way or is there anything type modification I can do to make it more like a unfiltered style?
5/28/2009
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I am wondering which of the yeasts to use in order make a Hefeweizen similar to Widmer or one of the other NW Hefs
11/19/2008
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I'm interested in buying the Wizard Wheat but I have a question being that it will be only my 3rd batch ever made. It is suggested to get the 3068 yeast for a more german style taste. My question is do i add the 3068 yeast in addition to the yeast that comes with the kit or do i substitute it in place of?
11/18/2008
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I brewed up two recipes the diamond knot IPA and the Wizard Wheat.
For the Diamond Knot, I used the 1028 London Ale Yeast.
My starting gravities 1.062 6 days later transferred to a secondary with readings of 1.020. I added about 1/2 a gallon of water and am getting the 1 bubble/3min mark about 6 days later took gravities and am at 1.010 (with 2 days or unchanging readings). Could this be ready for . . .
9/7/2008
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I am a big fan of your ingredient kits but have noticed that the selection has been very low lately. Why are some of your best ingredient kits no longer available?
7/13/2008
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I recently brewed a batch of Wizard's Wheat. Now I have 2 questions. 1) When I did the yeast (Wyeast 3068), i broke the inner pouch, but didn't wait at all to add. Is this ok? The ending specific gravity is 1.010. 2) I've been super busy and left the batch in the secondary fermenter for almost 2 months now. It appears to have white dots all on the top. Is that mold and is it safe? Should I bottle . . .
5/13/2008
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i have try three batchs of extact they didnt come out so good. i would like to use all dme. i plan on makeing a wheat ale. i saw the wheat and barey mix dme you have. can i brew just that dme with sp grains and hops to make a 5 gallon batch? i believe that they didnt come out so good because of old self life and bad yeast (from another shop). i dont think that its becuse of bad san but could be. do . . .
4/29/2008
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I would like to make a blueberry beer for this summer and was thinking I would use to West Coast Blonde kit to do so. Do you recommend any other kit to use? I have been researching the best way to make a blueberry beer and have come across a couple different variations as to when to add the blueberries during the process. Do you have any advice on making blueberry beer? Thanks.
4/27/2008
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what are the pros and cons of the dry yeast included in your ingredient kits vs the optional wet yeast culture? i'm especially interested in whether one produces more alcohol over the other and viability of the yeasts after shipping, and i welcome any other info you care to share.
3/18/2008
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Looking to brew a couple batches of homebrew towards the end of the month and we have some questions for you. First - we have 2 carboys and 2 airlocks and wondering if that is all we would need to brew 2 batches. Second- if we use the wizard wheat to create a hefeweizen and we wanted it to be either lemony like a summer shandy from leinemkugels or a blue moon with an orange...what would be the best . . .
3/12/2008
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On the directions to your kits it is stated that the beer will get better with aging. I've brew a few of your kits and I would like to know the proper way to age the beers. I've brewed the west coast blonde Ale, Diamond Knot IPA, Steadfast scottish Ale, and the Kangaroo Tail Ale.
Thank You,
John Newman
2/19/2008
--
i purchased the brown ale, followed the directions but it's ben over 10 days and im still not getting any bubbles through the air lock. Beer temp is aprox 68 to70 degrees,what do you think?
1/29/2008
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hey guys short question for you. Looking to make a real light "cherry" beer. Something very summer and very refreshing. wanting to have a cherry flavor to it similar to sam adams cherrywheat and wondering what kit i should buy from you . Yours in brewing Ryan
1/26/2008
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I live about an hour (if traffic is good) from the address on your website. Do you have an actual store or is everything here based solely online?
9/23/2007
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I ordered your Wizard wheat kit with the Wyeast 3068 yeast culture. I didnt really seem to find alot of info on useing the culture in the instructions. And this is my first time useing a culture. I am looking for the basic steps, Starting the culture 24 hours in advance? Does it need to be at room temp or cool when started?
6/25/2007
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I am eager to bounce into the world of Home Brewing. What type of beer should I attempt to brew first, if I am a rookie at this? Should I attempt bottling first, then move onto kegging? Thanks, and Happy Brewing!
1/25/2007
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My first brew! First fermentation took 3 days. Been in carboy now for 4 days - no more activity - so I took a hydrometer reading - now at 1.010 original was at 1.042. Could it be ready for kegging? Seems crazy fast. This is the American Pilsner by the way. Great site!
1/15/2007
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I just brewed your St. Pete's Pilsner, needless to say, I'm getting impatient waiting to try it. But my question is as follows: I would like to know the weights of the malts, grains, hops, irish moss, and yeast used to make batch. Could you inform on that? I am trying to keep a record and I failed to do that myself. Thanks.
1/8/2007
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I just brewed my first batch (St. Peter's Pilsner) and I think my impatience got the best of me. I placed the primary fermentor in my basement with a room temp at 55 degrees (approx. 6 days). I misread the directions as to when to switch the beer into the secondary fermentor. There was one bubble every 40 seconds, I didn't wait for the one bubble/minute or less. Is it ruined or is there something . . .
1/6/2007
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My batch of Vanilla Wiezen has been in the secondary fermenter for about a week now and I have not seen any bubbling. Is it possible that all the fermentation took place in the primary? What kind of reading am I looking for in the Wiezen prior to bottling? My first reading was 1.042. Thanks for the help.
1/3/2007
--
I see you get questions refering to this quite a bit. After 3 days we haven't seen any bubbling, and I made sure my seal was good again after reading, and it seems to be. I still ask because we had to alter the procedure a little to accommodate our indoor equipment. I could only use 2 gallons of water initially, but other than that followed everything else exactly. We also used the Wyeast Scottish . . .
12/30/2006
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I have started brewing a batch of Shamrock Irish stout, it has been 72 hours and I have seen minimal productivity in the primary fermenter (1 major bubble from the air lock). The temp in the area of fermantation is approx. 68 degrees, my starting SG was 1.046, i am worried that nothing is occurring. should I transfer to carboy or take a reading first and then transfer? also, what's the best procedure . . .
7/21/2006
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I am a first time brewer and pretty new to all of this. I have ordered the wizard wheat recipe and have this question. When do I add the honey and does that change my intial readings because of the change in alcohol content?
4/9/2006
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With your recipe kits, what would happen if i added the hopped extract to the water in the at the same time i added the specialty grains and started heating? I don't really like moving 6 gallons of boiling water off a cooker to prevent scorching the extract and thought adding the extract right at the start would help.
4/8/2006
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What type of yeast do you recommend for the wizard wheat kit? What yeast option do i get if I order the deluxe brewing kit with the wizard wheat?
3/26/2006
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I brewed Procrastinator Bock at the end of last year, and I'm really enjoying the fruits of my labor. I'm down to about 12 bottles... :(
Anyway, I want to brew another batch, but I'm ready to try a little bit of manipulation of the original recipe in order to tweak it. Do you have the original recipe quantities so I can modify it slightly?
3/26/2006
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Delayed fermenting question...For three days, my IPA was happily bubbling along when we got a cold snap.. Then there was a decrease in fermenting for a good 2 days or so, even though I moved the primary fermenter inside from the garage. Will this affect taste adversely? Should I rack it into the secondary fermenter earlier/later or anything? Or toss the whole batch and start fresh?
Thanks . . .
2/20/2006
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I just finished the ESB kit. When I put the wort into the primary I had to add water in order to bring the level up to 5 gallons. So I added the water and took a SG reading and only got about a 1030 reading. Do you think that I grabbed some of the water in my sample and that is why the reading is low?
Is there anything I should do now? The batch seems to be bubbling away nicely.
9/6/2005
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I have read a few recipes that mention adding honey to the end of the boil.
Aside from flavor and increase alcohol content can honey be added to most recipes???
8/31/2005
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will the liquid yeast survive shipping cross-country? when i've shopped at a local store, they've always given me my liquid yeast on ice. just curious...
8/7/2005
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I just started and this is the first beer I have brewed. Being a beginner, I of course made a mistake. I didn't put in the Irish Moss, but everything else I did according to the directions. What kind of effect will this have on the beer?
5/21/2005
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I am brewing Wizards Wheat and it is currently in the primary fermentation phase. I tested w/a hydrometer roughly 11 hours into fermentation to check progress and it has reached finishing gravity. I have watched the temperature closely. Is this unusual? Can I start secondary fermentation? Love the site, ya'll are runnin a great business.
5/16/2005
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i just asked a question but forgot to ask about your kits. Do the kits come with all the ingredients that i need or do i need to buy other ingredents to make my beer? and thanx again,i noticed that you don't try to sell people needless products when they ask you questions about home brewing. you just want to help people make better beer at home.
2/9/2005
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I am about to brew some wizards wheat with the liquid yeast. I use a 5 gal carboy with a blow off tube as my primary fermenter. From past experience, I will lose about a quart or more of beer from the blow off process. Should I top off when I rack to the secondary? Will this water down the beer? I have read the blow off takes out some of the bitterness and yeilds the best tasting beer? Would . . .
2/4/2005
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I am making wizard's wheat with the liquid yeast and the wort/young beer has been in the primary fermenter for 6 days now. As I stated in an earlier post, during the first 24 hours the fermentation was incredibly explosive and left a very dense head of foam on top of my "young beer". Ever since then, the bubbling began to subside from once every few seconds to once every twenty seconds . . .
2/1/2005
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Me and some friends cooked up a batch of your wizards wheat. About 24 hours later( after we put it in the primary) it started to foam out of the air lock and all over the place, it even blew off the top two peices of the air lock. Every time I put the airlock back on, it would just blow off from all the foam. The only thing I could think of doing was sanitizing a small mason jar and puting that over . . .
1/31/2005
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On Saturday afternoon I brewed my first batch of beer using the Wizard's Wheat kit. I have a question regarding Wyeast's 3068 yeast fermenting behavior. After I cooled the wort down to below 80 degrees by using a wort chiller, I oxygenated the wort using a pure 02 oxygenation system for 60 seconds or so. I pitched the yeast (which is less than a month old) and then placed my 5-gallon carboy in a . . .
11/2/2004
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My friend and I have recently purchased your Belgian Ale kit. We followed all the proper steps to ensure a good brew, things were going well until the onset of Hurricane Ivan. Our brew was in the first stage primary fermentation. It has been there for a little over a month and a half. Can we proceed normally from here and actually produce a good product or should we consider this batch- botched and . . .
8/19/2004
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I have just moved my wizard's wheat from the primary after 36 hours. The bubbles were just over a minute apart before I moved it. Now 4 hours later they are almost 3 minutes apart. Should I expect more activity than that? If not would it be too soon to bottle only a day or so after moving to the secondary...?
This is my first attempt at homebrewing and I'm really trying not to be concerned...after . . .
7/16/2004
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I have heard you need to age beers depending on the type you brew before you drink them. Is there any standard for this?
5/16/2004
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I noticed in the recipes from "Capturing Beer" that the author recommends using less bittering hops when brewing up a full 5 gallons (instead of boiling 2-3 gallons and adding water to the primary). Do you recommend tinkering with the bittering hops of your kits (St. Pete's, etc) when boiling up a full 5 gallons of wort in the brewpot?
4/9/2004
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I have your St Peter's Pilsner kit but desire some info not found in kit. Two questions....
Is there a full 5 lbs of the dry malt in the package ??
What bitterness rating may I expect using your recipe exactly to the best of my ability ?? I've 8 years brew experience.
3/26/2004
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I would like to buy your Wizard Wheat kit. I already have some fresh yeast at home in my fridge. My friend bought a kit at a local brew shop, and inadvertantly bought two containers of yeast He gave one to me (lucky me). Can I buy this kit with out the yeast?
3/25/2004
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I am returning to home brewing after about 10 years off - don't ask! I made several batches of a kit called something like "Irish Ale" which was suggested by the retailer where I bought my original supplies. It was amber colored and well received by all. My understanding was that pilzners and ales could be made without cooling, lagers and stouts required cooler temps. (50 deg or so). . . .
3/23/2004
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I am a beginning homebrewer and I am trying to determine the Alcohol by Volume of your beer kits. How you you go about using the specific gravities (starting/ending) to determine the alcohol by volume?
3/14/2004
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This is my first beer brew. I have all of the items in the kit in order to brew. How much and when should I add fruit such as blackberries or cranberries in order to liven up the brew?
3/13/2004
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1. For a first time home brewer, is there a recipe that is cheap and easy, like only one thing to mix with the water? I want to have a test run to make sure I have the steps and the sterilization right, even if it makes a run of the Mill(er) style beer. I do not want to waste $30 on a good ale kit and turn it to vinegar as a learning experiment when I could just waste $5 of malt syrup!
I have . . .
2/29/2004
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We are preparing to start our Wizard's Wheat. We'd like to give it a citrus flare. How can we introduce citrus to the batch?
2/24/2004
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What is the length of the bazooka and what type of connection fitting does it have?
My order arrived in 5 days (Oklahoma). I was really impressed with the packaging and instructions included with the Wizard Wheat kit. It's still fermenting!
2/20/2004
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what ingredient kit do i have to buy thats
close to the taste of coors light or bud light?
2/14/2004
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I brewed wizards wheat 2 weeks ago today. Move it from the primary on day 5 and when I checked for air bubble through the airlock its just under 1 minute 30 seconds. I've had out of the sunlight at around 65 -65 degrees. I was thinking it was ready to bottle but seems like I have a way to go. Is this typical for this beer? This is my first attempt at brewing so I'm not exactly sure what to expect. . . .
1/4/2004
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I have started a batch of this beer (St Peter's Pilsner) and have the primary fermatation going in a cool place, but at what temparture should the secondary take place.
12/27/2003
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A while back you answered a question about adding blackberries to make a blackberry wheat. How about adding cranberries for a cranberry wheat?
11/30/2003
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Is it possible to modify this or any other recipe as to gain a higher gravity or alcohol content in a lighter ale?
11/26/2003
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I recently bought Shamrock Stout. The bubbles were down to under a minute within 2 days, which is when I transferred to the secondary carboy. The bubbles aren't apparent now... which leads me to believe I should add more yeast. The temperature was 78 f at initial yeast introduction, yet now I am concerned that the yeast was not good... Should I add another packet now, or am I thinking too much about . . .
11/9/2003
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What is the life span of the beer (period of expiration)
10/12/2003
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I FELT LIKE THE BREW KITS I'VE BOUGHT IN THE PAST LACKED A PUNCH (ALCOHOL CONTENT). WILL USING DME INSTEAD OF SUGAR LOWER THE ALCOHOL CONTENT? HOW STRONG SHOULD I EXPECT MY BEER TO BE BREWING YOUR KITS, I.P.A.AND ST.PETERS PILSNER, ALSO APPROXiMATELY HOW MUCH LONGER TILL DRINKABILITY OR CARBONATION THAN CORN SUGAR? THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP TODAY PLANNING ON ORDERING MY EQUIMENT AND BEER KITS AFTER . . .
10/9/2003
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Are the hops left in or are they removed prior to fermentation? Should they be placed in a mesh bag as the grain is?
Thanks-Great site!
9/20/2003
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I ordered some of this with the liquid yeast here recently. When in the initial brewing stage, I mixed in the liquid yeast as per instuctions, and 24 hours into the brew, I saw no action at all in the check valve, so I removed the check valve, and added the dry yeast I had that also came with the package. Upon entering the secondary fermentation stage, there seems to be a slightly different odor than . . .
8/2/2003
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What is the approx. amount of alcohol content in these beers? Just so I know what to expect when I brew it.
7/17/2003
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Can blackberry's be added to this kit to make a blackberry wheat alternative? cups of juice or berries? Do I need to eliminate some of the sugars?
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