2/14/2012 -- I am looking to buy the Deluxe Home Brewing kit. I currently own a 7.5 Gallon (30 quart) pot that I have used to fry turkeys in and plan to cook seafood in. My question is would there be any reason that I couldn't use the same pot for brewing beer that I currently use to fry turkeys and boil seafood as long as I clean it thoroughly? If I did use the same pot and there was left over vegetable oil residue or seasoning how could it effect my end product?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: You didn't mention what your pot is made of. Some materials, like stainless steel, are better than others. Aluminum for instance does tend to "pit" in time and can affect taste after some use.

All things being equal however, a good thorough detergent cleaning should be enough to remove residual grease/oils. Rinse well of course.

If the pot did transfer some oils into your brew, the first thing you might notice is a lack of "head" on your beer. If much more, then taste can be affected as well. Nothing dangerous about all this, but you did ask for how your beer may be affected.

5/17/2010 -- what is your phone number?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: We can be reached at (425) 355-8865

Our toll free order is (800) 850-2739

5/11/2010 -- Hi- Will it affect the taste if I use an aluminum stock pot to cook the wort? Bob

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Homebrewers have taken sides over this issue for years. We feel that stainless steel is the BEST material, however.

Aluminum is light, transfers heat quickly and is inexpensive to buy. Drawbacks to aluminum brewpots are that it will "pit" over time, it doesn't clean as easily, it will dent easier, and some claim that there is a "metallic-like" aftertaste as well. There is even the contention that aluminum contributes to Alzheimers disease. Were not qualified to comment on that.

In our opinion, stainless steel is the best material for a brewpot. It is rugged, cleans easily, doesn't "leach" or pit, and requires basically zero maintainance. These are things to consider... breweries have, and use stainless steel. Yes, it does cost a little more, but you won't find a professional brewer who would choose aluminum.

5/28/2009 -- Do you recommend a glass or solid lid for the brewpots? I'm fairly new to homebrewing, and need to purchase a pot, trying to decide between 20qt and 30qt (borrowed a turkey fryer pot for my first batch, don't want to scrub peanut oil off the pot any more). My usual batch size is 5 gallons for now, so I was thinking 30qt would allow ample room to boil. Also, is a spigot necessary, or simply recommended?

You've got a great website, I think my wife actually ordered my kit from you guys. Thanks for the help! Cheers.

Response From Homebrew Heaven: I would recommend a 30 quart (or larger) pot for cooking 5 gallons batches. Remember, you will lose about a gallon to evaporation during the boil. A little headspace is nice to prevent boilovers. The type of lid is unimportant, but I would recommend a stainless steel pot over anything else.

A spigot is handy, but if you don't mind lifting the full pot (about 45 lbs) it makes no difference. Spilling that batch would be a crying shame, and safety is a concern as well...

Glad we can help!

11/23/2008 -- is a false bottom anything more special than a walmart purchased food strainer? conversly I read in the John Palmer book about making a manifold out of copper tubing and assume it sits on the bottom of the mash tun with grist over top of it; what size should the holes be driled in that manifold to allow water flow but not grist flow; and which would be the cheapest/best method?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Essentially, the false bottom or manifold arrangement is just a system that allows sweet wort to evenly drain thru it, while retaining the spent grain (while not clogging). It can be a simple strainer as elaborate as you like. A good one will allow your brewing to be efficient, in other words, allow for all of the starches in the grain to be converted to malt sugars.

The most popular arrangements for false bottoms are 3/32" hole size at a 5/32" stagger. That is considered optimum. If you are building a manifold, usually slots are cut into the top of 1/2" diameter tubing about 1" apart. The slots are perhaps 3/32" wide.

It's also hard to be the Bazooka Screen used as a false bottom. It is essentially just a stainless steel screen shaped into a sealed tube, and screwed into the outlet inside) of your brewpot.

If you want CHEAP, it is possible to build and use a "ZapPap", where one plastic bucket sits inside of another. In the top bucket, drill small hoses (similar to the flase bottom size) into the bottom of the top one. After mashing, your grain is simply dumped into the top bucket and hot water is poured over the grain bed. It may not be the most efficient, but lots of good beer has been made this way.

What is the BEST way? That is for you to determine give your existing/available equipment, skills, and budget.

7/27/2008 -- Love your store! Just finished my first all grain 5gal batch. My setup is all homemade. Picnic coolers and a copper manifold with slots cut in it. Long story short my sparge(4gal) took almost 4hrs! Did I mill my grain too much? Maybe it always takes that long, I mashed with 3gal, sparged with 4gal and wound up with 4gal of wort. My s.g. was really high so i added 1gal till I reached my desired s.g. Thanks for the help!

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, that sounds like it could be the problem. Either that, or poor flow thru your slotted manifold/valve. You should crush your grains so that the husks are just barely cracked. Don't turn it into flour!

A normal sparge should take perhaps an hour, maybe 1.5.

5/16/2008 -- Hi folks,
I'm thinking about trying my first all grain brew after a couple of extract batches which were delicious! I want to make sure that I have all the proper equipment. Currently I have a 7.5 gal brewpot with the spigot. I have all the necessary fermenting equipment, but what else do I need? False bottom, bazooka screen, tubing? Can you set me up with the necessary items and advise on a simple first time recipe? Thanks!

Response From Homebrew Heaven: For all-grain brewing you will need a large brewpot, a false bottom/spigot arrangement for mashing the grains, and another brewpot to collect the sweet wort at the end of the mash for boiling. You will also need a means of sparging, i.e. applying hot water to the top of the grains in order to "rinse thru" the grains. In a nutshell that is it.

There are LOTS of ways to do do this, however, like using a picnic cooler to mash in (instead of a pot), or bazooka screens in place of false bottoms. For sparging, some people just ladle hot water onto the grain bed, some set up a rotating sparge arm. As I say, there are lots of ways to "get 'er done". What suits you best is a choice for you.

I would recommend reading this link (chapter 18) on all grain brewing. It will help you visualize what is required:

http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter18.html

This chapter shows the process using a picnic cooler, but the principles are the same. Using a brewpot in place of a cooler allows you more flexibility (it allows you to heat the mash if needed). It has a nice recipe as well, but there are TONS of all grain recipes out there on the 'net. If you have a specific beer style in mind, we can help find an appropriate recipe.

As far as equipment goes, we can certainly set you up most any way you like. TYPICALLY, that would be with another 7.5 gallon pot, a false bottom and perhaps a screw-in thermometer. Easily done. It would probably be best to call us with specific questions with regards to equipment.

4/19/2008 -- I am looking for a good book to help answer some of the questions I have related to getting into all grain brewing. I have not yet acquired any equipment and was hoping I would find a book that would guide me into getting the "best" equipment necessary. There are a few titles I found on Chapters and Amazon, but wanted to check with you guys first to see what the best book out there is. Any thoughts? Keep in mind that I am going to be a total beginner and would likely progress to intermediate by summers end. Thanks.

Response From Homebrew Heaven: We like "How to Brew" by Palmer, or The New Complete Joy of Homebrewing" by Papazian

1/26/2008 -- I live about an hour (if traffic is good) from the address on your website. Do you have an actual store or is everything here based solely online?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, we have an actual brick-and-mortar store in Everett, WA. People actually walk in and buy stuff!

Our address is:

Homebrew Heaven
9109 Evergreen Way
Everett, WA 98204

Here is a video of our shop:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1a5fKvv8XI

Heck, you can actually call us on the phone, too! It's 425-355-8865. A person will actually answer as long as it's business hours!

1/28/2007 -- Can I use this jumbo straining bag to put in my brew pot during the steeping process to hold all of the grains for an all-grain brew and then to sparge just pull it up above the water and pour the sparging water through the grains so that the water just runs in with the rest of the water in the pot to continue from there? or is there a different method I should use?

Just trying to find a simple way to do my first all-grain brew.

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, this simple method can be used, but there are drawbacks you should be aware of.

First, your mash water/grains will be VERY hot, say 150 deg F, which is much hotter than you can pick up with your bare hands. It will also be very heavy, so you need plan accordingly.

Second, once the grain is in the straining bag, stirring is not easy, so it's difficult to even out the temperature throughout the grains.

Third, the sparging operation will be less than optimal, since the sparge water will only be going thru part of the grain bed at a time.

Overall, it's a decent way to try all-grain brewing, but with some better equipment, you can make the process much easier.

I like using a Bazooka Screen in my brewpot for the mash process. Then, all you need is a way to ladle water in over the top, and another pot to collect the runnings from the bottom.

12/3/2006 -- I just purchased the deluxe brewing equipment kit. Assuming I have nothing else, what will I need for all grain brewing?

11/5/2006 -- I live in Seattle, can I come and pick up the bottles in Everett? Do you have a "brick and mortar" store?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: You sure can. It is literally made of bricks and mortar, in South Everett. Our address is:

Homebrew Heaven
9109 Evergreen Way
Everett, WA 98204
425-355-8865

Hours are 10-6:30 M-F
and 9:30-5 on Saturdays

Here is a video of the place:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1a5fKvv8XI

Take a look around!

8/20/2006 -- I am looking at getting into all grain brewing and want to start with a stainless steel mash/lauter tun. I currently brew 5 gallon batches, but may want to increase to 10 gallon batches. If I purchase your 15 gallon brewpot with a brewmometer and spigot would this work for both 5 and 10 gallon batches?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Certainly; but most brewers find that for the same amount of time, you might as well brew 10 (or more) gallons. Temperature control is also easier, due to the larger thermal mass (less temperature swing). Beside...who can't use MORE beer?

7/25/2006 -- I have purchased the deluxe kit and a 7.5 gal brewpot. Must say i love it all. Now i want to move on to an all grain brew and i want to get the spigot and brewmometer and just wanted to know what i needed to do to install it all along with the hole diameter

Response From Homebrew Heaven: It's not too hard to install either one, but I should tell you that if you want to move to all-grain brewing, you are (probably) going to want an additional pot anyway. Of course, we can install those items for you. One is used to hold the grains and water, and the other is used to collect the runoff for boiling. There are other ways to do it, like using a Gott cooler for the grains and water, but it's still handy to have at least 2 pots (one for heating the water, and one for collecting the runoff).

To install a Spigot and Brewmometer, you will need a Bulkhead Fitting for each one. We have them in both brass and stainless steel. You will need to drill a 1.06" diameter hole, install the fittings, and tighten them down. Add a Threaded Nipple for the spigot, and you've got it. The Brewmometer will screw right in to the Bulkhead Fitting.

1/22/2006 -- Does the bazooka screen work immediately with your Thru-Wall fitting or is some sort of adaptor needed?
Is the threading of the bazooka screen compatible with the threading of the Thru-Wall fitting?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, the Bazooka Screen screws directly into the Thru-Wall Fitting. No adapter is needed there.

1/11/2006 -- when i make a 5 gallon batch of beer from one of your kits, how big of a brew pot am i going to need to have? can i get by with a small kettle or do i need one of the big 6 gallon pots?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Using a small brewpot (or less than a full volume boil) causes a "concentrated boil", if you will. Many inexpensive "kits/recipes" put this in their instructions, but it is bad advice.

This concentrated, sugary mixture will easily carmelize with heat, causing a darkening of the beer, as well as a poor breakdown of the malt sugars. Without a good breakdown, the yeast will have difficulty fermenting them. The result then is a high ending gravity, sweetness to the beer, and loss of alcohol.

The effect of the concentrated boil also affects the hop utilization. A thinner boil will cause a better breakdown of the hop compounds, a thicker one doesn't allow this. The effect here is an under hopped beer.

We recommend no less than a 4 gallon brewpot (16 quart), but a 6 or 7.5 gallon is better. That way you can start with a volume of about 6 gallons, and after evaporation of the boil, you end up yielding about 5 gallons. We don't do this to sell more brewpots. We do it because it makes better beer.

1/8/2006 -- I'm getting ready to purchase your delux kit, and i also plan on getting a brew pot. I would like to also use this pot for cooking soups and such (would this be advised against? i make a wicked chicken corn soup), so i question whether it is worth putting a through-wall thermometer on the pot. Also, will the thermometer shaft sit far into the pot, making it difficult to clean or insert a false bottom? This same whole question also applies to the spigot you offer.
This is a fantastic site, best i've seen on the web and i've done my research. This spring i'll be taking a homebrewing course at my college, where i'll learn everything beer, including all grain brewing, so i may soon be adding to this kit:)

Response From Homebrew Heaven: A good stainless steel brewpot like ours can be used for LOTS of things...crab cooker, turkey fryer, and yes, even chicken corn soup. That's the beauty of stainless steel, it cleans up so easily and completely.

A thru-wall type thermometer is nice, but not essential. After all, a floating thermometer does the same thing, just not quite as conveniently, or "elegantly".

The stem of our thru-wall thermometers extends in about 2.5" into the inside of the brewpot. It is usually placed at about 1/2 way up the pot, so it doesn't interfere with a false bottom. Cleaning is a snap.

The spigot kit we offer only extends into the pot less than 1/2", that shouldn't be an issue. It is designed to work nicely with a false bottom or Bazooka Screen if you want to add one later.

Thank for the kind words about our website. It really is a cumulative work over several years, and we like to hear that it shows. Many hours go into maintaining it, posting questions and answers, reviews etc etc. We feel the more information we can put out there the better.

10/30/2005 -- I am entirely new to brewing beer and would like to get started with all of the right equipment that I would need. I am positive that I would like to do all grain brewing eventually and everything that I read recommends that you make a larger batch when doing all grain. Basically, I am wondering if you could price out a good, complete starter kit with an appropriate brewpot included.

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Here is a good way to do it. It gets you a 12 gallon pot, false bottom, and thermometer mounted in the pot. You will probably also need an outdoor cooker too, they run $49.95-$69.95:

1 Deluxe Brewing Equipment Kit
No. Equipment Only; Outdoor; DVD Format $152.95
1 12 Gallon Stainless Steel Brewpot with Lid $87.95
1 BrewMometer Stainless Steel Thermometer $37.95
1 Thru-Wall (Bulkhead) Fitting - Brass (1/2" Npt)
Yes, please install (for thermometer) $8.95
Subtotal $287.80
Order Discount - $28.78
Total $259.02

4/18/2005 -- If money were not an issue, what would your recommendation be for a burner for 10 gallon batches? Similarly (pretending that money weren't an issue) what would you recommendation be for a brewpot for 10 gallon batches (please pick your preferred pot, spigot, etc.). Thank you.

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Here is how I would do it:

Shopping Cart
1 NEW High BTU Revolution Cooker $49.95
1 15 Gallon Stainless Steel Brewpot w/Lid $110.95
1 Thru-Wall Fitting (1/2" Npt) $8.95
1 Stainless Threaded 1/2" Nipple $3.95
1 NEW - Stainless Steel Ball Valve AR 316 $37.95
1 Stainless Steel Barbed Fitting - 1/2" NPT $10.95
Subtotal $222.70
Order Discount - $22.27
Total $200.43

Notice the nice discount once you reach $200. I realize that isn't a factor, but hey...why not take it?

You didn't ask me specifically about it, but it would be nice to have us install another thru-wall fitting, and add a screw-in thermometer as well. Very nice touch. It keeps you from removing the lid to check a floating thermometer. We can install it say, half way up the side of the pot.

You didn't say if you were doing extract or all-grain batches, but this pot setup would allow for both. If doing an all-grain, you could add a Bazooka Screen or False Bottom to the inside. It gives you plenty of room for grain, and lots of headspace for extract boils.

3/14/2005 -- How big of a brew kettle can a standard electric range hold and effectively heat?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Electric ranges vary considerably, but most can handle a volume of 5-6 gallons...it's more a matter of how LONG it takes to bring it to a boil, not the pot size. A wimpy burner may take well over an hour, a "hot" one will take about a 1/2 hour.

Propane cookers are considerably faster than any standard electric range I have seen.

3/6/2005 -- Just recently purchased a kit and want to begin but I am looking for a pot for boiling. Many local stores sell aluminum 7 gallon pots but all you sell is stainless. is there a reason for this or is going with an aluminum pot ok as it is much less expensive.

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Homebrewers have taken sides over this issue for years. We feel that stainless steel is the BEST material.

Aluminum is light, transfers heat quickly and is inexpensive to buy. Drawbacks to aluminum brewpots are that it will "pit" over time, it doesn't clean as easily, it will dent easier, and even the contention that aluminum contributes to Alzheimers disease. We won't comment on those things.

In our opinion, stainless steel is the BEST material for a brewpot. It is rugged, cleans easily, doesn't "leach" or "pit", and requires basically zero maintainance. These are things to consider... breweries have... and use stainless steel. Yes, it does cost a little more, but you won't find a professional brewer who would choose aluminum.

1/19/2005 -- Can you use an aluminum cooking pot,like the ones they use for frying turkeys to cook your wort?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: The easy answer is that you can... it's up to you, of course. However:

Homebrewers have taken sides over this issue for years. We feel that stainless steel is the BEST material.

Aluminum is light, transfers heat quickly and is inexpensive to buy. Drawbacks to aluminum brewpots are that it will "pit" over time, it doesn't clean as easily, it will dent easier, and even the contention that aluminum contributes to Alzheimers disease. We won't comment on those things.

In our opinion, stainless steel is the BEST material for a brewpot. It is rugged, cleans easily, doesn't "leach" or "pit", and requires basically zero maintainance. These are things to consider... breweries have, and use stainless steel. Yes, it does cost a little more, but you won't find a professional brewer who would choose aluminum.

1/13/2005 -- Hi; I am trying to decide between your 7.5 gal and 9 gal brewpot. I am new to brewing, and have started with extract brews. I will probably move on to an all grain brew at some point. Which pot would be better for me? I will be brewing on your standard kitchen gas stove. Any tips or equipment recommendations welcome.

Heather

Response From Homebrew Heaven: You know what they say...bigger is better. This is especially true if you think you will be doing all-grain brewing later on. This allows you to collect and boil a large runoff, and to make high-gravity beers that require much more grain. In fact, all-grain brewers often make double batches (10 gallons or more) because it takes the same amount of time to do it, AND the temperature is easier to control due to the large thermal mass (volume) of the grains.

I know it sounds like I'm just trying to sell bigger brewpots, but I believe that is sound advice.

10/8/2004 -- I am a novice and have only brewed 3 5 gal. batches. My instructions say to boil 2 to 2.5 gallons of wort. Am I correct in reading that you suggest to boil the entire 5 gallons?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Correct. No idea where you got those instructions, but we recommend boiling the full 5 gallons (or more).

Using a small brewpot (or less than a full volume boil) causes a "concentrated boil", if you will. Many inexpensive "kits/recipes" put this in their instructions, but it is bad advice.

This concentrated, sugary mixture will easily carmelize with heat, causing a darkening of the beer, as well as a poor breakdown of the malt sugars. Without a good breakdown, the yeast will have difficulty fermenting them. The result then is a high ending gravity, sweetness to the beer, and loss of alcohol.

The effect of the concentrated boil also affects the hop utilization. A thinner boil will cause a better breakdown of the hop compounds, a thicker one doesn't allow this. The effect here is an under hopped beer.

We recommend no less than a 4 gallon brewpot (16 quart), but a 7 or 8 gallon is better. That way you can start with a volume of about 6 gallons, and after evaporation caused by the boil, you end up yielding about 5 gallons. We don't do this to sell more brewpots. We do it because it makes better beer.

5/7/2004 -- I read elsewhere online that the wort can be brewed in a smaller pot, i.e. 5-quart, and then mixed with cool water in the fermenter to lower the temperature. Does this work, and if so, are there any undesireable side-effects?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: This is a really bad idea. The problem with the web is that anyone can post false information, and it's taken as true. In the first place, a 5-quart pot won't even hold the malt in our kits, much less any water. There are other problems as well:

Using a small brewpot causes a "concentrated boil", if you will. This concentrated, sugary mixture will easily carmelize with heat, causing a darkening of the beer, as well as a poor breakdown of the malt sugars. Without a good breakdown, the yeast will have difficulty fermenting them. The result then is a high ending gravity, sweetness to the beer, and loss of alcohol.

The effect of the concentrated boil also affects the hop utilization. A thinner boil will cause a better breakdown of the hop compounds, a thicker one doesn't allow this. The effect here is an under hopped beer.

We recommend no less than a 4 gallon brewpot (16 quart), but a 7.5 gallon is better. That way you can start with a volume of about 6 gallons, and after evaporation caused by the boil, you end up YIELDING about 5 gallons. We don't do this to sell more brewpots. We do it because it makes better beer.

2/10/2004 -- Can you use an aluminum pot to brew in.or would this alter the taste of the beer?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: The easy answer is that you can. It's up to you, of course.

Homebrewers have taken sides over this issue for years. We feel that stainless steel is the BEST material, however.

Aluminum is light, transfers heat quickly and is inexpensive to buy. Drawbacks to aluminum brewpots are that it will "pit" over time, it doesn't clean as easily, it will dent easier, and even the contention that aluminum contributes to Alzheimers disease. We won't comment on those things. Some people claim they can taste the aluminum in the beer.

In our opinion, stainless steel is the BEST material for a brewpot. It is rugged, cleans easily, doesn't "leach" or pit, and requires basically zero maintainance. These are things to consider... breweries have, and use stainless steel. Yes, it does cost a little more, but you won't find a professional brewer who would choose aluminum.

12/13/2003 -- sorry, i just sent a question but i forgot to ask...do i need to order a special type of large pot, or if i have one around the house, will that be good enough. thanks again.

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Any large pot will work, but we recommend one at least 4 gallons in size. Stainless steel is best, but enamel canning pots work well too.

12/7/2003 -- I use it in my boil pot to keep "hops back" This allows me to throw loose hops in the boil. Works great. You should push this use even if the brewer isn't an all grain brewer.

Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, I use it as an in-pot hop strainer also. You're right; we should mention it.

7/29/2003 -- Is a brewpot anything more than a stainless steel pot?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: No. It doesn't even have to be stainless. An enamel canning pot will work also.

6/2/2003 -- I'm just getting into home brewing. What is the purpose of the False bottom?

Response From Homebrew Heaven: It is normally used in all-grain brewing, where no malt extract is used, just grain. It's purpose is to hold back the grain husks, and to allow the sweet liquid (wort) to drain off for later boiling. All-grain brewing is fun and not that hard to do, but does take additional time and temperature control to be successful.

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