4/14/2012 – Does the inside of this fitting option allow for installation of a kettle screen?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes it does. Screws right in!
2/14/2012 – I am looking to buy the Deluxe Home Brewing kit. I currently own a 7.5 Gallon (30 quart) pot that I have used to fry turkeys in and plan to cook seafood in. My question is would there be any reason that I couldn't use the same pot for brewing beer that I currently use to fry turkeys and boil seafood as long as I clean it thoroughly? If I did . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: You didn't mention what your pot is made of. Some materials, like stainless steel, are better than others. Aluminum for instance does tend to "pit" in time and can affect taste after some use.All things being equal however, a good thorough detergent cleaning should be enough to remove residual grease/oils. Rinse well of course.If the . . .
5/17/2010 – what is your phone number?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: We can be reached at (425) 355-8865Our toll free order number is (800) 850-2739
5/11/2010 – Hi- Will it affect the taste if I use an aluminum stock pot to cook the wort? Bob
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Homebrewers have taken sides over this issue for years. We feel that stainless steel is the BEST material, however.Aluminum is light, transfers heat quickly and is inexpensive to buy. Drawbacks to aluminum brewpots are that it will "pit" over time, it doesn't clean as easily, it will dent easier, and some claim that there is a "metallic-like" . . .
5/28/2009 – Do you recommend a glass or solid lid for the brewpots? I'm fairly new to homebrewing, and need to purchase a pot, trying to decide between 20qt and 30qt (borrowed a turkey fryer pot for my first batch, don't want to scrub peanut oil off the pot any more). My usual batch size is 5 gallons for now, so I was thinking 30qt would allow ample room . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I would recommend a 30 quart (or larger) pot for cooking 5 gallons batches. Remember, you will lose about a gallon to evaporation during the boil. A little headspace is nice to prevent boilovers. The type of lid is unimportant, but I would recommend a stainless steel pot over anything else.A spigot is handy, but if you don't mind lifting . . .
11/23/2008 – is a false bottom anything more special than a walmart purchased food strainer? conversly I read in the John Palmer book about making a manifold out of copper tubing and assume it sits on the bottom of the mash tun with grist over top of it; what size should the holes be driled in that manifold to allow water flow but not grist flow; and which . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Essentially, the false bottom or manifold arrangement is just a system that allows sweet wort to evenly drain thru it, while retaining the spent grain (while not clogging). It can be a simple strainer as elaborate as you like. A good one will allow your brewing to be efficient, in other words, allow for all of the starches in the grain to . . .
7/27/2008 – Love your store! Just finished my first all grain 5gal batch. My setup is all homemade. Picnic coolers and a copper manifold with slots cut in it. Long story short my sparge(4gal) took almost 4hrs! Did I mill my grain too much? Maybe it always takes that long, I mashed with 3gal, sparged with 4gal and wound up with 4gal of wort. My s.g. was . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, that sounds like it could be the problem. Either that, or poor flow thru your slotted manifold/valve. You should crush your grains so that the husks are just barely cracked. Don't turn it into flour!A normal sparge should take perhaps an hour, maybe 1.5.
5/16/2008 – I'm thinking about trying my first all grain brew after a couple of extract batches which were delicious! I want to make sure that I have all the proper equipment. Currently I have a 7.5 gal brewpot with the spigot. I have all the necessary fermenting equipment, but what else do I need? False bottom, kettle screen, tubing? Can you set me up . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: For all-grain brewing you will need a large brewpot, a false bottom/spigot arrangement for mashing the grains, and another brewpot to collect the sweet wort at the end of the mash for boiling. You will also need a means of sparging, i.e. applying hot water to the top of the grains in order to "rinse thru" the grains. In a nutshell that is . . .
4/19/2008 – I am looking for a good book to help answer some of the questions I have related to getting into all grain brewing. I have not yet acquired any equipment and was hoping I would find a book that would guide me into getting the "best" equipment necessary. There are a few titles I found on Chapters and Amazon, but wanted to check with you guys . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: We like "How to Brew" by Palmer, or The New Complete Joy of Homebrewing" by Papazian
1/30/2008 – 2- Part question: In all grain brewing, do both the brewing grains (2-row malt) and the specialty grains go into the mash tun? and, if thats the case, do you just add the hops to the brew kettle after you've collected the wort?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes and yes! I like the easy questions!!
1/26/2008 – I live about an hour (if traffic is good) from the address on your website. Do you have an actual store or is everything here based solely online?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, we have an actual brick-and-mortar store in Everett, WA. People actually walk in and buy stuff!Our address is:Homebrew Heaven9121 Evergreen WayEverett, WA 98204Heck, you can actually call us on the phone, too! It's 425-355-8865. A person will actually answer as long as it's business hours!
11/30/2007 – I'm not exactly sure if I should get a kettle screen or a false bottom for my 15 gallon pot ??
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Me either. To me, it's really a matter of preference and how you are using it. If you are a serious all-grain brewer, you might find the false bottom more rugged. If you are an extract, or extract with specialty grain brewer, and just want to filter hops out of the boil, you might prefer the kettle screen. Both products have their . . .
3/19/2007 – I'm using a converted Sanke keg for a boil kettle with a drain valve welded in near the bottom. I currently drain the kettle through a SS kitchen strainer into the top of a plastic conical fermenter to remove most of the hops and also aerate the wort. I figure if some of the hops get through it's no big deal since they'll settle out anyway . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, you can use it in that manner, no problem. Just make sure the extract gets thoroughly dissolved in the water, and doesn't drop to the bottom and scorch. Actually that is good practice anyway, and a false bottom will help with keeping it off the bottom.Another product that is good for screening your wort is the Kettle Screen. Links . . .
3/9/2007 – Can you screw in the Kettle Screen and a ball valve into the bulkhead fittings?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The Kettle Screen screws right in to the inside of the bulkhead fitting. The ball valve has female threads, so it requires a Stainless Threaded Nipple 1/2" betweed the fitting and the ball valve. Here is a link to those products:
1/28/2007 – Can I use this jumbo straining bag to put in my brew pot during the steeping process to hold all of the grains for an all-grain brew and then to sparge just pull it up above the water and pour the sparging water through the grains so that the water just runs in with the rest of the water in the pot to continue from there? or is there a different . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, this simple method can be used, but there are drawbacks you should be aware of.First, your mash water/grains will be VERY hot, say 150 deg F, which is much hotter than you can pick up with your bare hands. It will also be very heavy, so you need plan accordingly.Second, once the grain is in the straining bag, stirring is not easy . . .
12/3/2006 – I just purchased the deluxe brewing equipment kit. Assuming I have nothing else, what will I need for all grain brewing?
11/5/2006 – I live in Seattle, can I come and pick up the bottles in Everett? Do you have a "brick and mortar" store?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: You sure can. It is literally made of bricks and mortar, in South Everett. Our address is:Homebrew Heaven9121 Evergreen WayEverett, WA 98204425-355-8865Hours are 10-6:30 M-F and 9:30-5 on Saturdaysand 11:00am-3pm on Sundays
9/3/2006 – If I have a false bottom would I still need a kettle screen, or does the false bottom negate that?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: You use either a false bottom OR a Kettle Screen. Not both.
8/20/2006 – I am looking at getting into all grain brewing and want to start with a stainless steel mash/lauter tun. I currently brew 5 gallon batches, but may want to increase to 10 gallon batches. If I purchase your 15 gallon brewpot with a brewmometer and spigot would this work for both 5 and 10 gallon batches?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Certainly; but most brewers find that for the same amount of time, you might as well brew 10 (or more) gallons. Temperature control is also easier, due to the larger thermal mass (less temperature swing). Beside...who can't use MORE beer?
8/4/2006 – I am currently building my start up all grain kit on your website and I am just trying to clear up a few questions. Do you recommend the false bottom or the kettle screen for straining your mash? Also when ordering the deluxe kit can I substitute the plastic fermentor for an additional glass carboy? Lastly do you have to siphon with the . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Both the false bottom and the Kettle Screen work well. Some people prefer one over the other, is all. Myself, I like the Kettle Screen.Yes, we do substitutions to our equipment kits like that all the time. Just tell us what you what at the "Customer Comments" section at checkout, and we will make it happen. There will be an additional . . .
5/25/2006 – I've looked at your list and it looks great. What if I want to also include a brew kettle screen (to filter leaf hops out) as well as be able to attach a hose to the Pan to drain it directly in the fermentor? And are there any additional acccessories you think would be useful?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Easy. The Kettle Screen screws directly into the back side of your spigot kit. No need for anything additional. On the outside of your spigot, you can attach a Barbed Fitting (1/2"). Below is a link to that product.Here is a link to the hose:You'll need about 4 feet of hose, I'm guessing.
4/9/2006 – I want to try a single temp infusion all-grain brew. I have your 7.5 gallon brewpot with the spigot installed in the standard location. I beleive I could do this brew in my brewpot, but would need to order a false bottom and maybe a bazooka screen. Not sure from looking around how this would work. The only "hole" in my brewpot is for . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, you just need either the Stainless Steel Kettle Screen or a False Bottom. Either one simply screws into the same thru-wall fitting that your spigot uses (only from the inside). You will need another pot to provide the heated sparge water to your mash. That can be done lots of different ways, from simply ladeling it in slowly, to using . . .
1/22/2006 – Does the kettle screen work immediately with your Thru-Wall fitting or is some sort of adaptor needed? Is the threading of the kettle screen compatible with the threading of the Thru-Wall fitting?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, the Bazooka Screen screws directly into the Thru-Wall Fitting. No adapter is needed there.
1/11/2006 – when i make a 5 gallon batch of beer from one of your kits, how big of a brew pot am i going to need to have? can i get by with a small kettle or do i need one of the big 6 gallon pots?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Using a small brewpot (or less than a full volume boil) causes a "concentrated boil", if you will. Many inexpensive "kits/recipes" put this in their instructions, but it is bad advice. This concentrated, sugary mixture will easily carmelize with heat, causing a darkening of the beer, as well as a poor breakdown of the malt sugars. Without . . .
1/8/2006 – I'm getting ready to purchase your delux kit, and i also plan on getting a brew pot. I would like to also use this pot for cooking soups and such (would this be advised against? i make a wicked chicken corn soup), so i question whether it is worth putting a through-wall thermometer on the pot. Also, will the thermometer shaft sit far into . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: A good stainless steel brewpot like ours can be used for LOTS of things...crab cooker, turkey fryer, and yes, even chicken corn soup. That's the beauty of stainless steel, it cleans up so easily and completely.A thru-wall type thermometer is nice, but not essential. After all, a floating thermometer does the same thing, just not quite . . .
11/3/2005 – I am looking for an economic way to get into all grain brewing and need a false bottom for my converted sanke. Is the bazooka screen truly effective or am I better off with a full false bottom? What are the pro's / con's?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Both work well for all-grain mashing. The false bottom may be slightly more efficient, but that is easily offset by using a little more grain. The false bottom is probably more durable (thicker, more rigid material) than the kettle screen. That's about it!
10/5/2005 – I want to order your false bottom for a boiling keg. Is the screen fine enough to hold back trub, or just hops? Should I buy a finer screen to further filter the wort before sending it to my carboy?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The false bottom is meant to hold back grain. The holes are 3/32" in diameter. It holds back MOST (but not all) leaf hops. Trub pretty much goes thru, depending on flow rate etc. The Kettle Screen might be a better choice for you for this application. It's mesh screen is finer than the false bottom.
9/26/2005 – I am going to be doing an all-grain brew, and was wondering if I can put my grains into a grain bag or if I should just leave them loose?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Well, it depends on what equipment you have. You will need some way of holding back the grains while the liquid is drawn off. Usually brewers use a false bottom in their brewpot, or a Kettle Screen. If you don't have either, then a nylon straining bag will do, but the grains need to be loose, and you will need to leave room for stirring and . . .
9/19/2005 – Can you use a stainless false bottom during the boil to be used as a hop back for draining wort after the boil?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, it can be used this way with leaf hops, but not with pellet hops. Pellet hops break up too finely to be "screened" out. Even with leaf hops, SOME hop residue will make it thru. A more effective device for screening leaf hops is the Kettle Screen. It has a finer mesh screen, and holds back more leaf hop residue. I still wouldn't use it . . .
7/15/2005 – I just ordered a pot with a 1/2" Thru wall fitting installed for a ball valve. My question is what should i put on the inside to keep all the loose hops from draining through into my fermenter?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: If you are using leaf hops, it's easy just to throw them into a hop bag, and remove them after the boil. Here is a link to that product.Another way (with leaf hops) is to use a false bottom kit or a mesh kettle screen inside your brew kettle.When using pellet hops, straining out the residue is usually not effective. Most brewers just . . .
4/6/2005 – I consider mashing in 48Qt Rubbermaid picnic box cooler. It has a plastic tap and is about 20" long. Is Bazooka screen sufficient for this kind of mash tan? What accessories (adapter, tap)should be installed with the screen?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, a Bazooka Screen is sufficient for mashing in such a setup. There are many, many different picnic box coolers made, so there is no standard adapter available. You'll have to work that out yourself.
3/14/2005 – How big of a brew kettle can a standard electric range hold and effectively heat?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Electric ranges vary considerably, but most can handle a volume of 5-6 gallons...it's more a matter of how LONG it takes to bring it to a boil, not the pot size. A wimpy burner may take well over an hour, a "hot" one will take about a 1/2 hour.Propane cookers are considerably faster than any standard electric range I have seen.
3/6/2005 – Just recently purchased a kit and want to begin but I am looking for a pot for boiling. Many local stores sell aluminum 7 gallon pots but all you sell is stainless. is there a reason for this or is going with an aluminum pot ok as it is much less expensive.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Homebrewers have taken sides over this issue for years. We feel that stainless steel is the BEST material.Aluminum is light, transfers heat quickly and is inexpensive to buy. Drawbacks to aluminum brew kettles are that it will "pit" over time, it doesn't clean as easily, it will dent easier, and even the contention that aluminum contributes . . .
2/20/2005 – OK. Enlighten the ignorants. The bazooka screen. Is this fitted inside the brew pot and then has an external spigot attached for transfer to the first fermetation pail? Also, does it matter if some 'trub' gets through to the fermentaion container?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: You are correct on how it goes together.The matter of trub is argued by many, but we feel it has very little effect (maybe zero) on the taste of the beer. It is impossible to filter ALL of it out anyway, and what does come thru is simply removed by siphoning the clear beer away from it after the trub settles. There is no need to get worked . . .
2/8/2005 – I have a 20qt brew pot..as much as I would love to make the 5 gallon wort all it once, boil overs would occur. While many recipes recommend 2.5 gallons for your boil, what volume should I boil with given the size of my pot? 3,4 gallons?Thanks
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Many recipes are faulty. I would recommend boiling the maximum amount that you can without boiling over. If this is only 4 gallons, so be it. Top up later, or find another smaller pot to make up the difference.OR get a larger pot...
2/1/2005 – Where can I buy the hops to brew the beer? I live in Plainview, Texas....would love to brew my own. But, I need the ingredients to brew it. will buy your equipment, so....where can I buy the goodies to brew it?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Right here! We have a large selection of hops, yeasts, grains and everything you need in the way of ingredients. Here is a link:A good way to get started is to choose one of our ingredient (recipe) kits. They get you started the right way!
1/19/2005 – Can you use an aluminum cooking pot,like the ones they use for frying turkeys to cook your wort?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The easy answer is that you can... it's up to you, of course. However:Homebrewers have taken sides over this issue for years. We feel that stainless steel is the BEST material.Aluminum is light, transfers heat quickly and is inexpensive to buy. Drawbacks to aluminum brewpots are that it will "pit" over time, it doesn't clean as . . .
1/13/2005 – Hi; I am trying to decide between your 8 gal and 15 gal brewpot. I am new to brewing, and have started with extract brews. I will probably move on to an all grain brew at some point. Which pot would be better for me? I will be brewing on your standard kitchen gas stove. Any tips or equipment recommendations welcome.Heather
Response From Homebrew Heaven: You know what they say...bigger is better. This is especially true if you think you will be doing all-grain brewing later on. This allows you to collect and boil a large runoff, and to make high-gravity beers that require much more grain. In fact, all-grain brewers often make double batches (10 gallons or more) because it takes the same amount . . .
10/8/2004 – I am a novice and have only brewed 3 5 gal. batches. My instructions say to boil 2 to 2.5 gallons of wort. Am I correct in reading that you suggest to boil the entire 5 gallons?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Correct. No idea where you got those instructions, but we recommend boiling the full 5 gallons (or more).Using a small brewpot (or less than a full volume boil) causes a "concentrated boil", if you will. Many inexpensive "kits/recipes" put this in their instructions, but it is bad advice. This concentrated, sugary mixture will easily . . .
5/7/2004 – I read elsewhere online that the wort can be brewed in a smaller pot, i.e. 5-quart, and then mixed with cool water in the fermenter to lower the temperature. Does this work, and if so, are there any undesireable side-effects?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: This is a really bad idea. The problem with the web is that anyone can post false information, and it's taken as true. In the first place, a 5-quart pot won't even hold the malt in our kits, much less any water. There are other problems as well:Using a small brewpot causes a "concentrated boil", if you will. This concentrated, sugary mixture . . .
2/10/2004 – Can you use an aluminum pot to brew in.or would this alter the taste of the beer?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The easy answer is that you can. It's up to you, of course.Homebrewers have taken sides over this issue for years. We feel that stainless steel is the BEST material, however.Aluminum is light, transfers heat quickly and is inexpensive to buy. Drawbacks to aluminum brewpots are that it will "pit" over time, it doesn't clean as easily . . .
12/13/2003 – sorry, i just sent a question but i forgot to ask...do i need to order a special type of large pot, or if i have one around the house, will that be good enough. thanks again.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Any large pot will work, but we recommend one at least 4 gallons in size. Stainless steel is best, but enamel canning pots work well too.
12/7/2003 – I use it in my boil pot to keep "hops back" This allows me to throw loose hops in the boil. Works great. You should push this use even if the brewer isn't an all grain brewer.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, I use it as an in-pot hop strainer also. You're right; we should mention it.
6/2/2003 – I'm just getting into home brewing. What is the purpose of the False bottom?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: It is normally used in all-grain brewing, where no malt extract is used, just grain. It's purpose is to hold back the grain husks, and to allow the sweet liquid (wort) to drain off for later boiling. All-grain brewing is fun and not that hard to do, but does take additional time and temperature control to be successful.
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