Roasted barley is the key ingredient in making stouts. Here is
an interesting chocolate stout recipe!:
by Mark Sullivan, Chesapeake Real Ale Brewers (CRAB)
Taken from "More Homebrew Favorites", by Lutzen & Stevens.
0.75 pounds Crystal malt
0.5 pounds Roasted barley
0.33 pounds Black patent malt
4 lbs Dark DME
3.3 lbs Dark malt syrup
6 tsp Gypsum
1 oz Northern Brewer hops (7-11% AA)
8 tbsp Hershey's unsweetened cocoa
1.50 oz Fuggles hops (4-6% AA), seperated into 2 equal piles
One package Wyeast 1318; London Ale II
Steep grains in 2 gallons of 160 degree F water for 20 minutes.
Remove the grains and discard, and bring the water to a boil.
Remove from heat.
Add the extracts and the gypsum, and bring the wort back up to a
boil. Once it is boiling, set a timer for 60 minutes, and add
the Northern Brewer hops. Boil for 20 minutes, and add 0.75
ounces of Fuggles hops.After 30 more minutes, add the remainder of
the Fuggles hops. Boil for an additional 10 minutes and
remove from heat.
Pitch the yeast as standard. Primary fermentation should take
about 5 days. Secondary should take about a week. Prime
with 0.5 cup corn sugar and bottle. Age as needed.
This recipe is a bit extrapolated by me. The original syrup
listed to use was a hopped extract, but I have always preferred
adding my own hops. The first addition of Fuggles is my way
of compensating for the lack of hopped syrup.
Secondly, the yeast strain is my own addition as well. The
original recipe does not specify a variety to use, so I made the
decision. Pretty much any American or British strain would be
an acceptable substitution.
8/9/2010 -- I am considering modifying the DK IPA kit to make a Cascadian Dark Ale. Can I just add a pound or so of black barley malt or similar with no further modifications?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I wouldn't do it like that. Try adding perhaps 1/2 lb of chocolate malt, and maybe (at most) 1/4 lb of roasted barley (not black barley). The chocolate malt will darken it quite a bit in itself. These specialty grains should be more than enough!See below for links to those products.
5/17/2010 -- what is your phone number?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: We can be reached at (425) 355-8865Our toll free order is (800) 850-2739
10/26/2009 -- What is the shelf life of whole grain? How about crushed grain?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: It depends on the conditions of your shelf, of course! Cool and dry conditions are best.From a practal standpoint, grains can be stored uncrushed, in unopened bags for a year or maybe even more at room temperature. If it is crushed, perhaps 1/2 of that.All grains should be stored away from moisture, sealed, and especialy protected . . .
6/16/2009 -- Specialty grain question: When the manufacturer recommends a percentage of grains to use (say, 5-10% of total grist) can you give me a good formula to use to help translate this for the extract brewers? --for example: making 5 gallons of beer using, maybe, 6lbs of extract...how much of a grain would 5-10% be? Thanks for the Q&A website lessons . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: A GOOD formula? Not really...only approximations because all-grain brewing efficiency varies from brewer to brewer. There is no exact relationship between all-grain brewing, and extract brewing. BUT, having said that...Here is a rough approximation:It might take 10 pounds of 2-row grain to produce a gravity that is equivalent to . . .
12/3/2008 -- your roasted barley is still listed as "roasted barley malt" on the website. does this indicate that this is actually a malted barley, and not the typical unmalted roasted barley that is frequently used in stouts today?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Good catch! Thank You. It is actually "un-malted", roasted barley. We have updated our description.Staff @ HBH
1/26/2008 -- I live about an hour (if traffic is good) from the address on your website. Do you have an actual store or is everything here based solely online?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, we have an actual brick-and-mortar store in Everett, WA. People actually walk in and buy stuff!Our address is:Homebrew Heaven9109 Evergreen WayEverett, WA 98204Here is a video of our shop: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1a5fKvv8XIHeck, you can actually call us on the phone, too! It's 425-355-8865. A person will . . .
11/5/2006 -- I live in Seattle, can I come and pick up the bottles in Everett? Do you have a "brick and mortar" store?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: You sure can. It is literally made of bricks and mortar, in South Everett. Our address is:Homebrew Heaven9109 Evergreen WayEverett, WA 98204425-355-8865Hours are 10-6:30 M-F and 9:30-5 on SaturdaysHere is a video of the place:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1a5fKvv8XITake a look around!
5/9/2006 -- I have noticed that all grain recipes often call for specialty grains. Am I supposed to mash the specialty grains with the base grains or do I add them after the mashing prior to the boil using a grain bag as I would if I were brewing an extract recipe?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: They should be mashed along with the base grains.
11/15/2004 -- I noticed in the specialty grain section that you recommend to remove grains from the wort (in extract brewing) around 170 degrees F. All the recipes I've followed have me boil the grains in the muslin bag for some time, then remove them. Any advice, reasons, knowledge know-how is greatly appreciated.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Boiling grains is a BAD idea. Temperatures above 170 deg F will extract tannins from the grain. Tannins are the astingent taste you get when you bite into a grape seed. Nasty, and it can affect your beer in the same way.
10/9/2004 -- Hi! I have brewed a few batches of beer, and all have turned out well. I'm ready to move onto a more intermediate level. I've been reading about using strainers and "sparging" the grains when they're done steeping. I have the concept I think, but I was wondering if this step is even necessary if I'm using a nylon straining bag for the . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: With a loose straining bag holding specialty grains, it is not necessary. Sparging is normally only done in all-grain brewing (without the use of extracts) to increase the extraction from the grains.
9/25/2004 -- I have a recipe that calls for cracked black patent, it that the same as crushed black patent?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Exactly the same. We crush it for you if you like!
6/10/2004 -- Since I am new to Homebrewing, what is the differnece between Light Crystal 20, 40, 60 etc? I assume that the 20, 40, 60 rankings mean the same for other styles as well like the medium crystal? Also, can you give me an example when you would want to use say the light crystal 40 instead of the 60.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: These are lovibond ratings that correlate to color, primarily. A low rating, like crystal 20 will add less color than a crystal 60, for instance. You can use these ratings to "fine tune" the color of your beer. Additionally, a higher rating means more carmelization of the grain, and the flavor changes as it gets darker. A dark crystal will . . .
1/2/2004 -- How do I order grains in multiples less than a pound? ( i.e. 3/4lb, 12oz etc)
Response From Homebrew Heaven: We've now fixed our website. Click on "Options" and then you can select either pounds OR ounces! Remember, 1 pound = 16 ounces
7/17/2003 -- How do you package grain for shipment?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Typically, we heat seal it into clear plastic bags. If needed they are "double bagged" just in case.You can have it crushed, or uncrushed. We can either mix the grains together or package them separately. These are the "options" you see on the right side of the screen.
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