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12/15/2012 -- I'm looking to buy your Deluxe kit for my son for Christmas, and he'll need a brewpot. What's the advantage to having a spigot? I don't want to buy him junk, and none of us has ever brewed our own beer before. Aside from the brewpot and bottles, what else would he need to get started?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Our Equipment Kits are really quite complete. As you say, a large brewpot is necessay, as well as bottles.
A spigot in the brewpot is a "convenience" type of product. It just make the job easier than lifting up a hot, heavy brewpot. A 5 gallon batch of beer weighs more than 40 lbs. Just opening a drain valve (spigot) makes the job easier . . .
5/2/2012 -- I am new to this brewing my own beer soda & wine. Your kits only have the brewing tools & not the mixing ingredients right?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Welcome to our hobby/obsession!
Yes, we sell the brewing equipment kits (tools) separately from the ingredients for making beer/wine/sodas. The Equipment Kits are a one time purchase, and you can choose the type of beer you like from our Ingredient Kits. We put together about 15 different recipe kits that get you started in the right way. . . .
3/20/2012 -- You are right about that opinion thing. Internet opinions are like axxholes. Everyone has one. It's best to ignore most of them.
I have been trying to do internet research and as you know there are 1,234,567,890 oppinions about every subject refering to brewing. Acording to a few different calculators I dont need all 5 oz of dextrose. for . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The amount of priming sugar used (for a given volume of beer) controls the amount carbonation in your final beer. If you like more carbonation, use more. If you like less, use less priming sugar. Easy.
I like my beer (regardless of style) to be carbonated on the high side. 5 oz is a good weight most any style of beer that comes in at 5 . . .
3/7/2012 -- I made a california lager using wyeast# 2112 about 6 or 7 weeks ago. Fermented at 60 degrees for primary and secondary fermentation. I bottled with about 1 1/2 cups DME. Its been almost 3 weeks and I tried one and its not carbonated at all. Should I give it 1 or 2 more weeks or should I move it upstairs to 72 degrees.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Definately. Move it to a warm place for at least 2 weeks or so. Lagers and DME both cause your beer to carbonate slowly.
9/6/2011 -- Are you going to offer the hop goblin kits this year? If so, when will they be available for purchase?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Absolutely! This popular seasonal kit will be available on October 1st! (to brew in time for Halloween)-NOW AVAILABLE!
5/17/2010 -- what is your phone number?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: We can be reached at (425) 355-8865
Our toll free order is (800) 850-2739
2/18/2010 -- I have my stout in the primary, just about to transfer to the secondary. I added oats to the boil and am thinking about putting some coffee and a vanilla bean into the secondary. What would be the best way to do this and do you think it would be too much??
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The best way to add coffee is to brew some up, and use that in place of water in your fermenter. If your beer needs a little "topping up" you could still do that.
Vanilla is easily added by throwing the whole bean into the seconday fermenter for about 1-2 weeks.
All these additions sound good, but it's probably best to just go with one . . .
9/3/2009 -- Is it possible to hop a bock beer more to give it a more balanced taste? and if so which hops would give such a end result? P.S. not a computer savvy guy, e-mail address is my wife cut me some slack on the name.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, it IS possible to add more hops to a bock. Add perhaps 1 oz of a good nobel hop to the boil, such as Hallertaur, Saaz or Tettnanger. Those are traditional "aroma" hops, but will also add some balancing bitterness. Yum!
Hah! Are you sure you want your WIFE learning about your beer brewing? Mine woulld just roll her eyes, but...
8/31/2009 -- I'm new to home Brewing and only used a Mr Beer kit...It was a gift. I want to step it up and try out the Deluxe kit you guys sell. I've got some questions:
Will the beer I make taste a lot better than the Mr Beer stuff? I like dark, malty and high ABV beer. Do you have a recipe kit thats close to that?
Last question, do you guys have . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: We get a lot of customers who started out with a "gimmick kit" like that. You'll find that with our way of brewing, it's simply not that hard to make GOOD beer! Rest assured that by using quality equipment and quality ingredients, you will be enjoying a tastier beer soon.
One of our recipe kits, Procrastinator Bock, sounds like the one . . .
8/1/2009 -- I just finished my first batch of wheat beer and have transfered it to the primary, it's been about 28 hours and i've only noticed about 1 bubble per minute in the airlock. Is the yeast doing it's job or should I add another packet? Also a solid layer of sludge has formed on the surface of the beer, is this normal? Cheers!
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, it is working.
No, it doesn't need any additional yeast, and yes, the layer on top is entirely normal.
Hang in there and enjoy!
9/7/2008 -- I am a big fan of your ingredient kits but have noticed that the selection has been very low lately. Why are some of your best ingredient kits no longer available?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: We are big fans too! We even like selling them...
The real problem is product availability. There is currently a worldwide HOP shortage, believe it or not, and getting the proper varieties in the quantities that we need has been a real challenge. We're hoping the situation will resolve itself by the end of the year, but it may not. Big . . .
4/27/2008 -- what are the pros and cons of the dry yeast included in your ingredient kits vs the optional wet yeast culture? i'm especially interested in whether one produces more alcohol over the other and viability of the yeasts after shipping, and i welcome any other info you care to share.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Both dry yeasts and liquid yeast cultures are excellent products. Generally speaking, you would use a liquid yeast culture if you are trying to replicate a particular style (or brand) of beer. This is especially so with specialty beers, like hefeweizens, bocks, or lambics for instance. To give all the pro/cons for all styles would be a huge . . .
3/12/2008 -- I brewed the Procrastinator Bock with the Wyeast #2206. It has been in the secondary fermentor about 3 1/2 weeks and is still bubling/foaming nicely. I am keeping it at around 42 degrees so I expect this to take a while. My concern is the trub on the bottom of the fermentor - will the beer be affected by sitting on top of this trub for a . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Not at all. Lagers are just like that. Lager yeasts are considered "bottom fermenting", so siphoning off the "trub" will also lose you a lot of viable yeast cells. 3.5 weeks is NOT a long time for a lager at that temperature.
Rest assured, you beer is getting better and better each day. When the gravity is perhaps 1/3 of your starting . . .
3/12/2008 -- On the directions to your kits it is stated that the beer will get better with aging. I've brew a few of your kits and I would like to know the proper way to age the beers. I've brewed the west coast blonde Ale, Diamond Knot IPA, Steadfast scottish Ale, and the Kangaroo Tail Ale.
Thank You,
John Newman
Response From Homebrew Heaven: With ALL beers, it is important to age them away from strong sunlight or florescent light.
For ales (like those you brewed), room temperature storage is just fine.
For lagers, it is BEST to let them sit at room temperature for at least 2-3 weeks, and then store them in a cool area, like a basement. 42-55 deg F is ideal for that. If . . .
2/19/2008 -- i purchased the brown ale, followed the directions but it's ben over 10 days and im still not getting any bubbles through the air lock. Beer temp is aprox 68 to70 degrees,what do you think?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I think you should take a hydrometer reading.
A hydrometer reading of your specific gravity will tell you what the condition of your beer is (done, still fermenting, not done etc), so you can THEN decide what the next step is. Time does not do this. Specific gravity reading do. Bubbling is an indicator, but a hydrometer reading tells . . .
1/26/2008 -- I live about an hour (if traffic is good) from the address on your website. Do you have an actual store or is everything here based solely online?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, we have an actual brick-and-mortar store in Everett, WA. People actually walk in and buy stuff!
Our address is:
Homebrew Heaven
9109 Evergreen Way
Everett, WA 98204
Here is a video of our shop:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1a5fKvv8XI
Heck, you can actually call us on the phone, too! It's 425-355-8865. A person will . . .
6/25/2007 -- I am eager to bounce into the world of Home Brewing. What type of beer should I attempt to brew first, if I am a rookie at this? Should I attempt bottling first, then move onto kegging? Thanks, and Happy Brewing!
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Welcome to our world!
The best of type of beer to make is the kind you like to DRINK! All beers are made in a similar manner, so there is really no such thing as a "starter" beer. We encourage people to select a favorite beer style kit from our lineup in the Beer Ingredients (Recipe) section. Here is a link to that category:
http://store.homebrewheaven.com . . .
1/25/2007 -- My first brew! First fermentation took 3 days. Been in carboy now for 4 days - no more activity - so I took a hydrometer reading - now at 1.010 original was at 1.042. Could it be ready for kegging? Seems crazy fast. This is the American Pilsner by the way. Great site!
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Why worry? Hydrometers don't lie. It may seem crazy fast to you, but it happens all the time. Fermentation time doesn't mean diddly. Hydrometer readings do. Lots of commercial breweries are on a 7 day brew-to-keg schedule.
It's ready to keg!
1/15/2007 -- I just brewed your St. Pete's Pilsner, needless to say, I'm getting impatient waiting to try it. But my question is as follows: I would like to know the weights of the malts, grains, hops, irish moss, and yeast used to make batch. Could you inform on that? I am trying to keep a record and I failed to do that myself. Thanks.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Sorry. That is something that we do not do.
Our kits are proprietary recipes of Homebrew Heaven. We are justifiably proud of them, having won many awards and honors. Even commercial breweries have asked us for our recipes, and we've given the same answer.
1/8/2007 -- I just brewed my first batch (St. Peter's Pilsner) and I think my impatience got the best of me. I placed the primary fermentor in my basement with a room temp at 55 degrees (approx. 6 days). I misread the directions as to when to switch the beer into the secondary fermentor. There was one bubble every 40 seconds, I didn't wait for the . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Absolutely NO reason for concern here.
We give time guidelines like "one bubble per minute" reluctantly, and the only reason we do it is because people insist on using a clock as a measure of how "done" their beer or wine is. They hate using a hydrometer. Clocks are more familiar, I guess. It is completely an artificial yardstick. Yeast . . .
1/6/2007 -- My batch of Vanilla Wiezen has been in the secondary fermenter for about a week now and I have not seen any bubbling. Is it possible that all the fermentation took place in the primary? What kind of reading am I looking for in the Wiezen prior to bottling? My first reading was 1.042. Thanks for the help.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, it is entirely possible.
This is the time to take an "ending gravity" reading, using your hydrometer and test jar. This reading should be (approx. 1.008 -1.014), according to your instructions for this kit.
1/5/2007 -- I just bottled a batch of Procrastinator Bock 14 days ago. The starting and ending gravities were within the parameters listed. I used the standard corn sugar provided when bottling. I have sampled two different bottles and while the taste and aroma are good there is next to no carbonation. Should I just be more patient or should I try . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Nothing, I'm sure. Procrastinator Bock is a lager, and lager yeasts often take longer to work, and to carbonate. Perhaps your previous kits were ales, which do carbonate faster. I wouldn't do anything except TRY to be patient.
1/3/2007 -- I see you get questions refering to this quite a bit. After 3 days we haven't seen any bubbling, and I made sure my seal was good again after reading, and it seems to be. I still ask because we had to alter the procedure a little to accommodate our indoor equipment. I could only use 2 gallons of water initially, but other than that followed . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, we do get these kind of questions. People are anxious about their new hobby, and usually just want some assurance that they haven't screwed it up. That is SELDOM the case.
I will assume that the yeast was added after all the water was in there, AND that you ruptured the inner pouch on the yeast pack, and allowed it to swell up. If . . .
12/30/2006 -- I have started brewing a batch of Shamrock Irish stout, it has been 72 hours and I have seen minimal productivity in the primary fermenter (1 major bubble from the air lock). The temp in the area of fermantation is approx. 68 degrees, my starting SG was 1.046, i am worried that nothing is occurring. should I transfer to carboy or take a reading . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Worrying never improved a beer.
My guesses at this point (in order):
1) The fermentation already occured, you just missed it
2) The lid on your primary fermenter is not sealed 100%
A hydrometer reading will tell you what is up.
There is no harm in opening up your bucket, and siphoning off a sample into your hydrometer test jar. . . .
11/27/2006 -- I just brewed a batch of your Procrastinator Bock and was wondering if there was any way in which to keep the fermenter cool (around 45 degrees or so) without using a refrigerator. I live in an apartment and the only storage space I have is a small hallway closet. So is there like a cooling jacket made for a 5 gallon fermenter or anything . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Not without spending a LOT of $$ for a glycol cooling jacket. Frankly, that is way more than most home brewers want to spend.
The only alternative I know of is setting your carboy into a cooler that is partially filled with cool water, and then periodically adding some ice cubes. It works, but you have to remember to throw in the ice cubes . . .
11/20/2006 -- Racked the brew from primary into secondary carboy already, although when I did this, obviously there was plenty of trub left that didn't siphon into the secondary. There's about 3-4 inches of space left at the top of the carboy. Can I boil some more water with say some honey/sugar in it and top it off so that I will have a complete 5 Gal. . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: |You cna do that, but 3-4 inches is not a problem, anyway. On a 5 gallon carboy, the 5 gallon line is about where the ''shoulder'' is. Remember too, that if you use honey, it will extend the fermentation time in the secondary.
11/5/2006 -- I live in Seattle, can I come and pick up the bottles in Everett? Do you have a "brick and mortar" store?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: You sure can. It is literally made of bricks and mortar, in South Everett. Our address is:
Homebrew Heaven
9109 Evergreen Way
Everett, WA 98204
425-355-8865
Hours are 10-6:30 M-F
and 9:30-5 on Saturdays
Here is a video of the place:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1a5fKvv8XI
Take a look around!
4/9/2006 -- With your recipe kits, what would happen if i added the hopped extract to the water in the at the same time i added the specialty grains and started heating? I don't really like moving 6 gallons of boiling water off a cooker to prevent scorching the extract and thought adding the extract right at the start would help.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: You can do that, however the dry malt extract will take a while to fully dissolve in the cold water.
You will find that dry malt extract tends to float on the top of the water until it dissolves, therefor scorching is less of a problem than with liquid (syrup) malt extracts that fall to the bottom.
3/26/2006 -- I brewed Procrastinator Bock at the end of last year, and I'm really enjoying the fruits of my labor. I'm down to about 12 bottles... :(
Anyway, I want to brew another batch, but I'm ready to try a little bit of manipulation of the original recipe in order to tweak it. Do you have the original recipe quantities so I can modify it slightly? . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: That's one thing we don't do (give out our recipes). Sorry.
We have put a lot of development "work" (fun actually) into our kits, and many people, other brewshops and even commercial breweries have tried to copy them. It doesn't make business sense to release that information. They are tried and true, they are our products, and we're proud . . .
3/26/2006 -- Delayed fermenting question...For three days, my IPA was happily bubbling along when we got a cold snap.. Then there was a decrease in fermenting for a good 2 days or so, even though I moved the primary fermenter inside from the garage. Will this affect taste adversely? Should I rack it into the secondary fermenter earlier/later or anything? . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The most common question we get is:
"My beer/wine is not fermenting (according to the schedule) like I think is should...is it ruined?" People think it is either fermenting too slow or too fast, or has stopped prematurely or won't quit fermenting (again,... according to their schedule). This question falls into the same category.
My . . .
3/15/2006 -- I just purchased your Procastinator Bock kit. This is my first "lager" kit. I've previously use canned kits. In the past I've just done a primary fermentation at room tempurature - then bottled, with good results. I was going to do about the same with this kit but someone suggested that I use an Ale yeast if I wasn't going to cold ferment. . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: You can do it exactly as you have been doing. I would use the lager yeast that came with the kit, just do it at room temperature. It will be fine.
Probably the BEST way to do a lager without cold fermenting is to use a warm fermenting lager yeast, like Wyeast #2112.
2/20/2006 -- I just finished the ESB kit. When I put the wort into the primary I had to add water in order to bring the level up to 5 gallons. So I added the water and took a SG reading and only got about a 1030 reading. Do you think that I grabbed some of the water in my sample and that is why the reading is low?
Is there anything I should do now? . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Absoutely. Even if you stir it well, it will not completely mix, and will give you low readings.
It does not affect your beer, however. No need to do anything.
11/28/2005 -- I never did lager fermenting before so.....
...If I ferment at cooler temps, will bubbling be evident? At room temps, I can see bubbling going at a good rate and its easy to spot when it goes below a bubble per minute (read time for secondary!). Will I be able to see the same "cues" if I ferment at ~ 50 degrees?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: You will still see bubbling, but it is always best (especially with lagers) to take hydrometer readings to determine if the fermentation is REAlly complete. Lagers can fool you. They look done, but may not be.
8/11/2005 -- I just transferred my beer to the secondary fermenter 2 days ago and the bubbling in the airlock has already slowed to one bubble every 11-12 minutes. The directions though, say that it should take a week for the bubbling to slow to one bubble every 3 minutes. So should I wait a week anyway, or just go ahead and bottle? Or do I have a stuck . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: When fermenting beer, all times are very, very approximate.
Yours may well take less than a week in the secondary fermenter to stop bubbling. No problem. I would still allow at least a week in the secondary for more sediment to fall out. I can almost guarantee you do NOT have a stuck fermentation.
After a week, check the specific gravity . . .
8/7/2005 -- I just started and this is the first beer I have brewed. Being a beginner, I of course made a mistake. I didn't put in the Irish Moss, but everything else I did according to the directions. What kind of effect will this have on the beer?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Very minor; not to worry.
Irish moss is a natural clarifier. It aids clearing by causing proteins to settle out prior to bottling.
The worst you may notice is that when you chill your beer, you get a slight haziness (called chill haze), but it will not affect the flavor of your beer at all.
7/8/2005 -- I added 2 lb. of honey to a Procrastinator's Bock and ended up with gravity readings of 1.092/1.016. Not that I am complaining about an alcohol content of 9.8% but you say it should be 6.7%. Worried now that I am reading my hydrometer wrong.
You nice folks are great!! If you ever decide to franchise, let me know!!
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The added honey increased the specific gravity, and therefor alcohol content as well. A strong beer indeed. If your volume is actually somewhat less than 5 gallons, that would account for any remaining difference. Your hydrometer is probably pretty close.
No, YOU'RE the greatest! Thanks for the kind words...but I don't see a franchise happening . . .
5/16/2005 -- i just asked a question but forgot to ask about your kits. Do the kits come with all the ingredients that i need or do i need to buy other ingredents to make my beer? and thanx again,i noticed that you don't try to sell people needless products when they ask you questions about home brewing. you just want to help people make better beer at . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Homebrew Heaven Ingredient Kits come with everything you need except water; they are pre-measured, and ready to go with complete instructions.
Thank you for your comment; we try to be helpful. In the long run, that is best for home brewers, and best for our business as well.
2/7/2005 -- My wife and I love a beer called Aventinus, it's a unfiltered double bock. It has great tones of clove and bannana, and has great malty flavours. I purchases your Wizards wheat, should I have gone with your bock instead?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: In a word, yes. Wizard Wheat is a very good beer, but the Procrastinator Bock is much closer to what you are after.
11/2/2004 -- My friend and I have recently purchased your Belgian Ale kit. We followed all the proper steps to ensure a good brew, things were going well until the onset of Hurricane Ivan. Our brew was in the first stage primary fermentation. It has been there for a little over a month and a half. Can we proceed normally from here and actually produce . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: A Hurricane is no match for BEER! Really, it should be fine.
As long as the airlock remained in place, I would pick up and go with it. Now you know what to name it: Ivan's Belgian Ale.
10/26/2004 -- hey, just a quick question for ya, incredible site, quick response, everything is awesome, now to my question, just wondering if you could give me an explanation of "bock" and what makes the alcohol content higher.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Bock beers are a particular style of lager. It is quite malty (which accounts for it's high alcohol content) and is low in hops. Here is the particulars, from the BJCP style guide:
Traditional Bock
Aroma:
Strong aroma of malt. Virtually no hop aroma. Some alcohol may be noticeable. Diacetyl or esters should be low to none.
Appearance: . . .
8/22/2004 -- When using a kit that requires the steeping of grains, does it matter how long it takes to bring the temp to 170 degrees? Is there any benefit in starting with a lower burner setting to lengthen the time the grains are in the pot?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: When steeping specialty grains, the exposure time (in the water) isn't very important. You can probably coax a little more flavor out of it by starting at a lower temperature, and lengthening the exposure time, but it's probably VERY little.
5/16/2004 -- I noticed in the recipes from "Capturing Beer" that the author recommends using less bittering hops when brewing up a full 5 gallons (instead of boiling 2-3 gallons and adding water to the primary). Do you recommend tinkering with the bittering hops of your kits (St. Pete's, etc) when boiling up a full 5 gallons of wort in the brewpot?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: No. Our kits are designed for a full 5 gallon boil (or more). That is the best way to make beer, and that the way we recommend doing it.
Using a concentrated wort (partial boil volume) doesn't properly utilize the hops (or malt) in the kit. It will still make good beer, but it is better to boil it all. Actually, I like to start with 6 . . .
4/18/2004 -- Should the Procrastinator Bock be kept at around 40 to 55 degrees during the secondary fermentation as was suggested for the primary fermentation?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, if you can do it. It will continue to "lager", and get smoother in the secondary fermenter.
4/9/2004 -- I have your St Peter's Pilsner kit but desire some info not found in kit. Two questions....
Is there a full 5 lbs of the dry malt in the package ??
What bitterness rating may I expect using your recipe exactly to the best of my ability ?? I've 8 years brew experience.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The expected bitterness is 16 IBU's, but we don't give out the actual ingredients, weights etc for our Homebrew Heaven Ingredient Kits.
3/25/2004 -- I am returning to home brewing after about 10 years off - don't ask! I made several batches of a kit called something like "Irish Ale" which was suggested by the retailer where I bought my original supplies. It was amber colored and well received by all. My understanding was that pilzners and ales could be made without cooling, lagers and . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Welcome back!
There are two primary types of beer, ales and lagers, based on the type of yeast used to ferment them.
Typically, lagers are the following styles:
pilsners
bocks
marzen/oktoberfest/vienna beers
Ales have many different styles:
stouts
porters
weizens
pale ales
IPA's
belgian ales
The above listing are generalities . . .
3/23/2004 -- I am a beginning homebrewer and I am trying to determine the Alcohol by Volume of your beer kits. How you you go about using the specific gravities (starting/ending) to determine the alcohol by volume?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: You can approximate the % alcohol by taking the starting gravity and subtracting the ending gravity. You then divide this value by 8.
For Example:
Start Gravity (OG) = 1.050
Ending Gravity (FG) = 1.012
Difference in gravity "points" = 38
38 divided by 8 = 4.75% alcohol by volume
This is a handy (easy) way to do it. There are other . . .
3/13/2004 -- 1. For a first time home brewer, is there a recipe that is cheap and easy, like only one thing to mix with the water? I want to have a test run to make sure I have the steps and the sterilization right, even if it makes a run of the Mill(er) style beer. I do not want to waste $30 on a good ale kit and turn it to vinegar as a learning experiment . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: 1. We try to make really, really EASY, and the first time success rate is 100%, as far as I can tell. I'd recommend our Back to Basics Ale Kit, tho, if you want to be cautious. It is only $22.50 and makes a very good beer. The instructions are good...they walk you thru step-by-step.
Here is a link to it:
http://www.nexternal.com/hombre/?Target=products.asp&ProductID=956
2. . . .
2/20/2004 -- what ingredient kit do i have to buy thats
close to the taste of coors light or bud light?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: That would be the American Pilsner Kit.
Here is a link to it:
http://www.nexternal.com/hombre/?Target=products.asp&ProductID=992
1/18/2004 -- I'm making my first batch of Procrastinator Bock. My last batch was the Diamond Knot IPA, which I loved. My question is this: Would it be a good thing to try and hop up the bock a little by dry-hopping? I love malty beers but also love hoppy ones. If so, what hop would you suggest?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Sure, dry hopping would be nice. Be sure to do it late...like in the secondary, or even in the keg. Mmmmmm.
I would suggest using an aromatic "nobel" hop variety, like Saaz, Hallerauer or Tettnanger. Enjoy!
1/6/2004 -- I started a batch of Procrastinator Bock right after Christmas. Everything was going fine the next day with the air lock bubbling away at room temperature. After I moved the fermentor to a cool place (45F)the bubbling stopped. After a couple of days I moved it back to room temperature. I added some dry yeast after no action was seen after . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I'm guessing that it is done, but the way to know for sure is to take a hydrometer reading. If the reading is approx. 1.018 – 1.025, you can go ahead and bottle it.
1/4/2004 -- I have started a batch of this beer (St Peter's Pilsner) and have the primary fermatation going in a cool place, but at what temparture should the secondary take place.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The temperature difference between the primary phase and the lager phase should be roughly 10°F. I guess I'd say the ideal temperature would be 45 deg F., but remember, nothing is absolute. Brewing is both a science and an art! Lower temperatures will extend the time required to finish, but will result in a clean, soft finish that is characteristic . . .
12/27/2003 -- A while back you answered a question about adding blackberries to make a blackberry wheat. How about adding cranberries for a cranberry wheat?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Heck yes. I've found that the only thing limiting you is fear and common sense. Thankfully, I have little of either. About the only advice I can give is add too little, rather that too much. Sneak up on the amount you use.
FWIW, we plan to introduce a vanilla wheat beer kit soon. So much for common sense.
12/23/2003 -- I just took my initial spacific gravity reading and it was 1.060 - 1.062, is that a bad thing? It should've read 1.065 - 1.073, acording to the directions.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: No, not a bad thing at all. That's really quite close.
Possible reasons include:
1) If less than 5 gallons were boiled, and then added to cool water, it is normal to have a lower gravity. Despite mixing well, the top part of the wort is always lower gravity than the bottom part.
2) Inaccuracy of the hydrometer itself
3) Temperature of . . .
11/30/2003 -- Is it possible to modify this or any other recipe as to gain a higher gravity or alcohol content in a lighter ale?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, by adding more fermentable sugars to the boil. This is often done with corn sugar or malt extract. Corn sugar is ok within limits, but using too much will add a "cider-like" taste. Malt extract is a better choice, but it will add some color as well. With Belgian ales, it is common to use clear candi sugar (rock candi). This keeps the . . .
11/26/2003 -- I recently bought Shamrock Stout. The bubbles were down to under a minute within 2 days, which is when I transferred to the secondary carboy. The bubbles aren't apparent now... which leads me to believe I should add more yeast. The temperature was 78 f at initial yeast introduction, yet now I am concerned that the yeast was not good... . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: It sounds just fine to me. A fast, vigorous fermentation is a good thing! It indicates good, fresh yeast and ideal fermentation conditions. This kind of thing is more common in summer months, but it sounds like you have it in a warm place.
I assure you that even if you don't see them, plenty of yeast are still in there. I would just let . . .
11/9/2003 -- What is the life span of the beer (period of expiration)
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Not very long at MY house! Seriously, tho, if you store your homebrew properly, it should last for at least a year. Some, like the heavier, darker beers just get better with age. I have had some that was over 4 years old and it was excellent!
10/12/2003 -- I FELT LIKE THE BREW KITS I'VE BOUGHT IN THE PAST LACKED A PUNCH (ALCOHOL CONTENT). WILL USING DME INSTEAD OF SUGAR LOWER THE ALCOHOL CONTENT? HOW STRONG SHOULD I EXPECT MY BEER TO BE BREWING YOUR KITS, I.P.A.AND ST.PETERS PILSNER, ALSO APPROXiMATELY HOW MUCH LONGER TILL DRINKABILITY OR CARBONATION THAN CORN SUGAR? THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Using DME in place of corn sugar will lower the alcohol content slightly, but I doubt if you could measure it. It is more a matter of finer bubbles, and additional flavor from the DME.
Each of our Homebrew Heaven Ingredient Kits is designed to make a beer that is true to the style...in other words, it varies kit by kit. For example, the . . .
9/20/2003 -- I ordered some of this with the liquid yeast here recently. When in the initial brewing stage, I mixed in the liquid yeast as per instuctions, and 24 hours into the brew, I saw no action at all in the check valve, so I removed the check valve, and added the dry yeast I had that also came with the package. Upon entering the secondary fermentation . . .
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Nothing to worry about at all! I'm certain it will turn out just fine. Many people, when using liquid yeasts are unaccustomed to the longer "lag" time they experience comparded to dry yeasts. This is entirely normal.
For your next batch, however, I would wait for the liquid yeast to kick in. It will, it just takes longer.
You can avoid . . .
8/2/2003 -- What is the approx. amount of alcohol content in these beers? Just so I know what to expect when I brew it.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The alcohol content varies with the beer kit. For the Golden Eagle, it runs about 4.5% ABV. Other beers, like the Procrastinator Bock, are higher; some, like the American Pilsner are lower. We try to keep the alcohol level appropriate to the style of beer.
6/2/2003 -- What are the expected specific gravities for the Procrastinator Bock?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: 1.069 for the initial gravity, and 1.020 for the final gravity. This is equivalent to about 6.7% alcohol by volume.
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