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6/9/2012 -- When I buy this specific kit (Cooper's Unhopped Wheat Malt 3.3 Lb.) What else do I need to purchase (specifically) to make it?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: As far as ingredients, you'll need some additional fermentables, like dry wheat malt extract OR corn sugar, hops, and priming sugar and water. See links below.
You didn't say whether/not you already have the equipment for making beer. If so, that's it.
If you don't have the equipment, then an Equipment Kit is a great way to go. Additionally, a large pot to cook it in and some bottles would be required. Links to some of those products are shown below also.
3/20/2012 -- You are right about that opinion thing. Internet opinions are like axxholes. Everyone has one. It's best to ignore most of them.
I have been trying to do internet research and as you know there are 1,234,567,890 oppinions about every subject refering to brewing. Acording to a few different calculators I dont need all 5 oz of dextrose. for bock they recomended 3-3.6 oz for my just less than 5 gal. batch that fermented at 47 deg. F.(procrastinator and brown sugar,s-23 and hella bock )
also what type of bock is procrastinator?dopple,maibock,eisbock ect.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The amount of priming sugar used (for a given volume of beer) controls the amount carbonation in your final beer. If you like more carbonation, use more. If you like less, use less priming sugar. Easy.
I like my beer (regardless of style) to be carbonated on the high side. 5 oz is a good weight most any style of beer that comes in at 5 gallons. If your beer is only 4 gallons, I would use 4/5ths of that amount, or 4 oz.
Our Procrastinator Bock is rich, dark and malty. I would call it a Munich style bock beer.
5/17/2010 -- what is your phone number?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: We can be reached at (425) 355-8865
Our toll free order is (800) 850-2739
4/28/2010 -- I would like to make a sparkling mead using your kit. If I were to treat it as I do beer, I would wait til the end of fermentation, add priming sugar, then bottle. Do you agree? Would adding additonal honey for carbonation work, and if so, how much? Then, as far as the bottling, which bottles/cork/cap combination would be best? thanks.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I agree, more or less...
This can be done, but DON'T add the stabilizer at the end (it comes with the kit) or it won't carbonate. Also, don't expect a sweet mead, because all of the honey (sugar) will have been fermented out. You can get a sweet sparkling mead if you keg it, but that is different than your bottling question.
For a carbonated mead, I would use standard beer bottles and caps OR champagne bottles with wired down stoppers. You'll need strong bottles for any carbonated drink.
To carbonate your mead using honey, use between 1/2 and 3/4 cup per 5 gallon batch. It won't add sweetness, however, just CO2. It will take longer to carbonate as well. My opinion is that using corn sugar is better for that purpose.
7/14/2008 -- can i use dme to prime my beer? if so what would you suggest dme or dextrose?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, absolutely. DME makes for a nice creamy head, and is especially good with stouts. Use about 1.25 to 1.5 cups per five gallon batch.
1/26/2008 -- I live about an hour (if traffic is good) from the address on your website. Do you have an actual store or is everything here based solely online?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, we have an actual brick-and-mortar store in Everett, WA. People actually walk in and buy stuff!
Our address is:
Homebrew Heaven
9109 Evergreen Way
Everett, WA 98204
Here is a video of our shop:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1a5fKvv8XI
Heck, you can actually call us on the phone, too! It's 425-355-8865. A person will actually answer as long as it's business hours!
6/19/2007 -- I recently got done fermenting a batch of beer and before i bottled i used priming sugar which i boiled with a cup of the fermented beer before adding, as the instructions directed. A week into the beer sitting in the bottles i decided to open one to see how far along the beer had come. To my dismay there was no carbonation at all! Should i simply wait a while longer and hope that the yeast reacts or will i now have 50 bottles of flat beer? One thing that did happen was that i did not stir the priming sugar in for that long. Could this be the reason?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Those aren't OUR instructions. Not our kit. It should work, however.
Usually when we hear this, the problem is that the beer has been refrigerated during the week or so it has been in the bottles. Wrong thing to do! Beer, especially ales, needs to be at room temperature for about 10 days for carbonation to develop. Try doing that.
4/12/2007 -- i uses malt extract to prime. it has been over two weeks with 0% carbonation. is there anything that i can do at this point or is all lost?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Almost EVERY time we hear this, it is an ale and it has been stored in a cold area since it was bottled. Ale yeast shuts down below about 60 deg F, and the beer doesn't carbonate. The solution is to warm it up for at least two weeks and allow it to work.
The OTHER few times when we hear this, it is because the brewer has used the same amount of malt extract as he normally uses when using corn sugar. They are not equivalent. If you use 3/4 cup corn sugar, you need to use about 1.25-1.5 cups of dry malt extract. If you are using malt extract syrup, then you need to use close to 2 cups. If this is the case, the only solution is to add additional sugar to each bottle and wait for carbonation to build up (again).
11/5/2006 -- I live in Seattle, can I come and pick up the bottles in Everett? Do you have a "brick and mortar" store?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: You sure can. It is literally made of bricks and mortar, in South Everett. Our address is:
Homebrew Heaven
9109 Evergreen Way
Everett, WA 98204
425-355-8865
Hours are 10-6:30 M-F
and 9:30-5 on Saturdays
Here is a video of the place:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1a5fKvv8XI
Take a look around!
2/2/2005 -- I don't mean to beat a dead horse. But, as a new homebrewer is priming sugar the best way to carbonate?
Will you have trouble transporting your homebrew in bottles because the sediment will get stirred up? Or is the yeast generally sticky enough to stay put as long as you are not driving like Mario Andrettti?
I want to homebrew and bottle great beer but sharing it with others is part of the fun too. Are the sediment laden bottles a pain?
Thanks for the help and your website is one of the only homebrew related ones that actually has support. I will consider this heavily when I decide to buy my kit!
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I think you will find the yeast layer to be very, very thin and well adhering to the bottom of the bottle. Sure, you CAN shake it up, but normal handling isn't a problem. Is priming sugar the best way to carbonate?...well that depends. Force carbonating (using CO2) in a keg is hard to beat. It leaves NO sediment and it carbonates overnight. That is usually my choice. No need for cleaning bottles etc, so the convenience factor is way up there! It takes a little more equipment ($$) but many homebrewers go this way.
10/1/2004 -- i will be bottling my first batch of beer. i read alot about using corn sugar for priming but my brewing instructions say to use table sugar and not to use corn sugar. what will be the difference and which should i use so i dont mess this up?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I don't know what instructions you are using, but it is bad advice. Table sugar adds a "cider-like" taste, and produces larger, unnatural bubbles in the beer.
I would ignore the instructions and use corn sugar for priming. Use about 3/4 to 1 cup per 5 gallons.
9/5/2004 -- I keg my brew, but would like to bottle a few from each batch. How much corn sugar is needed per 16oz. bottle? Is a teaspoon per bottle about right?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: More like about 3/4 tsp. will do the trick.
7/2/2004 -- Is it better to prime your beer bottle's individually or is it just as well to prime the batch?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I believe it is much better to prime the entire batch. Priming each bottle individually is not very consistant.
9/26/2003 -- Do you use the same amount of DME as you would corn sugar? Does the substitution of DME for priming change the finished charactistics of the beer in any way?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: No. For priming your beer, you should use either 1.25 cups dry malt extract or 3/4 cup of corn sugar.
The carbonation from dry malt extract appears to have a smaller bubble size, and produce a "creamier" head that will corn sugar. Using dry malt also will take a little longer for your beer to develop full carbonation.
9/26/2003 -- Some homebrews I have tasted seem to have "larger" CO2 bubbles than bottled beers. Is this the result of using priming sugars? Is there any type of priming sugar or technique that will minimize the size of the bubbles?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Some sugars are known to produce larger bubbles, especially table sugar. Corn sugar works nicely, but using dry malt extract seems to produce the smallest bubbles in bottle-conditioned beer.
Another way is to force carbonate your beer in a keg, using a kegging system.
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