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4/29/2012 -- How far apart do you plant the rhizomes? When is the best time to plant them? We live in Atlanta, ga.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: About 3 feet apart will work just fine. Provide a trellis or rope line for them to climb up.
NOW is the best time for planting.
5/17/2010 -- what is your phone number?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: We can be reached at (425) 355-8865
Our toll free order is (800) 850-2739
4/3/2010 -- I want to grow hops for home brewing. Do I need both male and female rhizomes? Are yours female? or what?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Rhizome cuttings of known female plants become the only reasonable means of plant reproduction for brewing purposes. That means they are all female plants. Males are not needed (or desired).
The complete lack of male plants means no seeds and control of varietal purity. Other than purposeful hop hybridization programs, no one uses seeds or grows male plants on purpose. AND, flowers produced by male plants have no favorable brewing flavors or aromas, so are thus very undesirable!
All of Homebrew Heaven's hop rhizomes are female for these reasons. They are the ones you want!
4/20/2009 -- I also live in Southwest MI. (boarding Ohio) which plants would be the best to plant and how would I prepare the soil for planting.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The simplest answer is: Choose a high alpha variety like chinook, centennial, nugget, or horizon. They seem to be a little more hardy than others. Cover the rhizomes with about an inch or two of dirt. They grow like crazy when the hot weather sets in. See below for comeplete information that comes with the rhizomes.
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Homebrew Heaven Growing info: OSU Extension Service Crop Science Report Growing Hops - In the Home Garden Susan M. Hiller, Gale A. Gingrich and Alfred Haunold¹
The Plant
The hop plant Humulus lupulus L. is an herbaceous perennial, producing annual vines from an overwintering rootstock. In the spring and early summer, vines grow rapidly, winding around their support in a clockwise direction and clinging with strong, hooked hairs. They reach their ultimate height of 15-25 feet by June/July when, in response to shortening daylength, vines stop growing vertically and produce sidearms which bear the flowers.
The hop is dioecious, having separate male and female plants. Only the females produce the cone-shaped "hops" used in brewing. The male plant serves only as a pollenizer, but is not essential for the female plants to produce hop cones. Hops are heterogeneous and new plants coming from seed could be either male or female.
The rootstock is an underground structure consisting of both rhizomes (with buds) and true roots (without buds) which may penetrate the soil to a depth of 15 feet or more. During the first year little growth and few flowers are produced because the plant is establishing its root system. A normal crop of hops should be expected the second year.
Climate
The hop plant produces best under specific climatic and soil conditions. A minimum of 120 frost free days are needed for flowering. Direct sunlight and long daylength (15 hours or more) is also needed. As a consequence of daylength and season length, hop production is limited to latitudes between 35 and 55 degrees. (for reference, this is as far south as Amarillo, TX and as far north as Edmonton)
The hop plant requires ample moisture in the spring followed by warm summer weather. In dry climates the hop plant will produce best if supplemental irrigation is provided.
Soil and Plant Nutrition
A deep well drained, sandy loam soil is best. Soils with a pH of 6 to 7.5 is ideal for hop production. Poorly drained, strongly alkaline or saline soils should be avoided. Fertilizers rich in potassium, phosphate, and nitrogen should be applied each spring. Nitrogen is required at a rate of approximately 150 lbs per acre (3 lbs N/1000 ft2). The nitrogen may be applied in split applications 2 or 3 times between March and mid-July. If manure or compost is applied around the hop plant, fertilizer applications may be reduced accordingly. Planting The soil should be tilled to create a weed free area. A strong support system is needed for the plant to climb on. Look for space along fences, garage, or property lines.
Plant in early spring once the threat of frost is gone but no later than May. The soil should be worked into a fine, mellow condition prior to planting. In cold climates you can plant rhizomes in pots and transplant in June. If planting is delayed, keep rhizomes refrigerated in a plastic bag to prevent them from drying. Plant two rhizomes per hill with the buds pointed up and cover with 1 inch of loose soil. Hills should be spaced at least 3 feet apart if the hills are of the same variety and 5 feet apart if they are different.
The first year the hop plant requires frequent light waterings. A hop quarantine in the state of Oregon prohibits hop plants and all plant parts, except kiln dried cones, from entry into the state directly, indirectly, diverted or reconsigned. There is an exception for the states of Washington and Idaho meeting specific conditions. This quarantine was established to prevent the introduction of diseases.
Pruning
When the young vines are about 1 foot long, two to six vigorous vines are selected for each hill and the rest are removed. One to three vines are trained clockwise on a string which has been staked to the hill. Hops mainly grow vertically, but lateral sidearms extend from the main vine and produce flowers. The main concern is to support the vines and prevent the sidearms from tangling. Most cones are produced on the upper part of the plant. In July, the lowest four feet of foliage and lateral branches can be removed to aid in air circulation and reduce disease development. The removal of lower leaves (stripping) must be done carefully to avoid breaking or kinking the main stem. In August allow additional bottom growth to remain to promote hardiness of the crown and plant vigor for next year. At the end of the season you can bury healthy bottom vines for propagating new plants the next spring. Simply bury the vines in a shallow trench and mark their location. In spring dig them up and cut them into pieces about 4 inches long. Make sure each new cutting has an eye or bud.
Diseases, Downy Mildew
This disease is caused by the fungus Pseudoperonospora humuli. The fungus infects only the hop plant and will not affect other garden plants. The disease first appears in the spring as infected shoots (spikes) emerge from the overwintering rootstock. The number of infected shoots may vary from none to all in any given hill. Infected shoots are stunted, brittle, and lighter in color than healthy shoots. The leaves are often deformed and curled. Infected shoots are unable to climb. Gray or black masses of fungal spores are often present on the underside of infected leaves. Spores are dispersed by wind and rain. The disease is favored by warm (65-70°F) wet weather and the fungus requires free water on leaf and shoot surfaces for infection. Spiked shoots should be removed promptly and buried. Flowers often become infected when blooming occurs during wet weather. Young cones that are infected stop growing and turn brown. When older cones are attacked, part or all of the petals turn brown and cones fail to develop properly. Verticillium Wilt This disease is uncommon in the Pacific Northwest. Symptoms include yellow veining of the leaves and wilting of leaves and vines. Early symptoms may include wilting on only one side of a leaf. A brown discoloration inside the vine may be observed by cutting diagonally into the vine. Depending on the hop variety and the strain of the fungus, disease can vary from year to year. A plant showing symptoms this year may seem entirely healthy the next year. There are no effective control measures. The fungus can persist in the soil for several years. If this disease recurs regularly, remove the infected plant and replace with a new one in a different location. Abiotic Wilt Hop plants are extremely sensitive to soil residues of the pesticides heptachlor and chlordane. Chlordane was widely used in home gardens in the l960's but both were banned in 1972. Symptoms of heptachlor and chlordane poisoning may be similar to those of Verticillium wilt but there are some important differences. The lower part of the affected vine will have a rough, scaly appearance with deep cracks which may ooze sap. Vines are brittle and may easily snap when bent. In cross-section, the central sap of the vine may have a darkened, water-soaked appearance instead of a light color. Plants will likely exhibit a slow decline over a period of 2-3 years. There is no known cure. The hop varieties Cluster and Chinook seem to be somewhat more tolerant than other varieties. Viral Disease Symptoms of virus infection vary with environmental conditions. The virus may cause leaf and vine tip distortions, tip die back, yellow spotting of the leaves, stunted growth, failure to climb on the trellis and flower blasting. There is no cure and severely affected plants should be removed and destroyed. Over the years many of the most severe viruses have been eradicated from commercial production. Rootstock purchased from a reliable propagator is unlikely to have severe virus problems.
Insects
Hop aphids and spider mites are the most common hop pests. Other less serious insect pests include wire-worms, leaf rollers, armyworms, hop looper, root weevils, omnivorous leaftiers, western spotted cucumber beetles, corn earworms, and several species of cutworm. These usually are not present in damaging numbers. Hop aphid, Phorodon humuli The hop aphid is a small (2mm) soft bodied, pale green pest. The hop aphid overwinters on Prunus species (ie. ornamental plum trees) and in the spring return to the hop plant. Hop aphid infestations develop more rapidly during cool weather. The hop aphid does damage by sucking plant juices. Aphids should be controlled before or during flowering to keep them from entering the young cones. Once the aphids have entered the cones, they will secrete a honeydew and cause a sooty mold in the cones. Spider Mites, Tetranychus urticae. The adults are very small, have eight legs. They are pale green, yellowish to reddish in color, often with a dark spot on each side of their body. A hand lens is needed to see the pearly white spherical shaped eggs. The spider mite feeds by puncturing the lower leaf surfaces and withdrawing plant sap. Each puncture produces a small light colored spot. Eventually the leaves become bronzed, shrivel and die. White webs may also appear if infestation is severe. The spider mite will also feed on the petals of the cones causing them to turn brown, a condition growers call "red hops". Spider mites are a problem during prolonged periods of warm, dry weather. Mite predators include the western predator mite and the small black lady beetle. Regular washing of the plant's leaves with your garden hose may prevent an outbreak. Cutworms Cutworms over-winter as larvae or pupae in the soil. The adult moths emerge in late spring and lay eggs. The larvae that emerge from the eggs feed on plant stems at night. Cutworms can generally be found just beneath the soil surface during the day. Prionus beetles, Prionus spp. Adult beetles may be 1.5 to 3.5 inches long and .75 inches wide. Their long sweeping antennae may appear sawlike. Larvae are white, fleshy grubs, without legs. The head is brown with forward-protruding, very strong, jaws or mandibles. Larvae may be 1.5 to 3 inches in length. They live in the soil and feed on roots.
Harvesting Hops
Harvest in the Pacific Northwest usually runs from mid August to mid September, depending upon the variety. If you want to use your hops for ornamental purposes, pick your hops early. Otherwise hand pick hop cones and dry them in a food dehydrator.
To determine ripeness pick a cone and touch and smell. If the cone is too green it feels slightly damp to the touch and has a softness to its scales. If you squeeze the cone it will stay compressed in your hand. A dry cone will feel papery and light. It will feel drier than a green cone, some varieties take a lighter tone as they mature. If your hands quickly take up the smell and are slightly sticky due to the yellow powdery lupulin, your hops are ready for harvest.
To harvest, cut the vine at the bottom leaving 3-4 feet of the vine to lay on the ground and cut the string at the top. Lay the vine on the ground and pick off the cones. The harvested vine can be mulched, burned, or woven into a wreath. When handling fresh hop plants wear long sleeves and gloves because the hooked hairs of the plant may cause a slight rash.
If you choose to construct a dryer, good airflow is essential, and the temperature must not exceed 140°F. Drying hops at a lower temperature takes longer, but a better quality hop is obtained. For drying the low-tech way, you can use a window screen. Spread the hops evenly across the clean screen. Place the screen off the ground and in an enclosed area to keep wind and bugs from creating problems. A healthy vine will produce 1-2.5 pounds of dried cones per plant.
The dried hops are ready for storage when springy to the touch and the yellow lupulin powder easily falls out. Another indicator is when the central stem breaks rather than bends. The stem takes much longer to dry than the petals. Cones are best stored in plastic bags that can be sealed. It is important to make sure the cones are sufficiently dry. If cones are not properly dried, they become moldy, wilted, or even rancid and cannot be used for brewing. Fill the bag until the cones are well compressed. Once the bags have been sealed and properly labeled store them in a freezer. Thawing and refreezing stored hops reduces quality and freshness. ------------------------------------------------ ¹Administrator, Oregon Hop Commission, Salem, OR; Extension Agent, Oregon State University, Salem, OR; and USDA, Hop Research Geneticist, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR, respectively. EXT/CRS 104 July, 1995
4/23/2008 -- I was wondering what would be the best hop roots to buy to grow in the Northern Part of lower Michigan?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: There is not much difference in "hardiness" between the varieies, but I would favor high alpa types, like Centennial, Nugget, Chinook, and Nugget.
4/16/2008 -- What kind of hops will do best in maine?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: There is not much difference in "hardiness" between the varieies, but I would favor high alpa types, like Chinook, Nugget and Centennial.
4/15/2008 -- I live in San Diego and plan on planting Cascade, Chinook, Centenial and williamette rhizies. What is the best way to prepare the soil? How big of a whole do I need to dig? Do you have any recomendations for fertilizer? Cheers Todd
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Here is my view of it. It doesn't take much preparation, actually. Dig a hole maybe twice the size of the root (maybe a foot in diameter?) and just barely cover the root when you plant it. To be honest, I have never fertilized one, so they can't require much. The real preparation is in giving them something they can climb up on. They grow HIGH. Course twine or rope works well (especially coir rope), but you need something high to fasten it to.
Here is perhaps a better source of information (from OSU Extension Service Crop Science Report Growing Hops - In the Home Garden Susan M. Hiller, Gale A. Gingrich and Alfred Haunold¹ ):
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Soil and Plant Nutrition
A deep well drained, sandy loam soil is best. Soils with a pH of 6 to 7.5 is ideal for hop production. Poorly drained, strongly alkaline or saline soils should be avoided. Fertilizers rich in potassium, phosphate, and nitrogen should be applied each spring. Nitrogen is required at a rate of approximately 150 lbs per acre (3 lbs N/1000 ft2). The nitrogen may be applied in split applications 2 or 3 times between March and mid-July. If manure or compost is applied around the hop plant, fertilizer applications may be reduced accordingly. Planting The soil should be tilled to create a weed free area. A strong support system is needed for the plant to climb on. Look for space along fences, garage, or property lines.
Plant in early spring once the threat of frost is gone but no later than May. The soil should be worked into a fine, mellow condition prior to planting. In cold climates you can plant rhizomes in pots and transplant in June. If planting is delayed, keep rhizomes refrigerated in a plastic bag to prevent them from drying. Plant two rhizomes per hill with the buds pointed up and cover with 1 inch of loose soil. Hills should be spaced at least 3 feet apart if the hills are of the same variety and 5 feet apart if they are different.
4/11/2008 -- Are there any that can grow in mostly shade?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Under the right conditions (soil, water, lattitude, etc), you can hardlly KEEP them from growing. They won't grow as well as in full sun, but they will probably grow.
4/10/2008 -- Can you recommend three hop varities for growing in Burlington, Iowa? Burlington is located in the southeast corner of Iowa.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: There is not much difference in "hardiness" between the varieies, but I would favor high alpa types, like Chinook, Nugget and Centennial.
4/9/2008 -- Is there a "correct" way to splice root structure off already growing hops to increase - move - harvest the hop plant??
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The rhizomes should really be divided before growth starts for the year...very early spring, in other words. You can simply dig them up, or divide them with a shovel and relocate them.
3/30/2008 -- How will the hops fair in temperatures around 110-117 degrees, say in the Las Vegas area? Also, which varieties are more suitable?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: They should do OK with the heat, providing there is enough water. Yakima, WA where they are grown commercially routinely gets over 102 deg F in the summer.
There is not much difference in "hardiness" between the varieies, but I would favor high alpa types, like Chinook, Nugget and Centennial.h
3/30/2008 -- How many rhizomes are in a package?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: One rhizome. You plant one rhizome and prune it down to about 2-3 active shoots per vine. They grow 20 feet tall (and taller) so you don't need many rhizomes.
2/24/2008 -- i would like to grow my own hops, where can i buy seeds?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Hops are not grown from seeds, but from root stock (called rhizomes). We expect some hop roots to be available by about March 23rd. We don't know what varieties yet, so some may be in short supply.
When they become available, they will appear on our website. Try checking back about mid-March for availability.
1/26/2008 -- I live about an hour (if traffic is good) from the address on your website. Do you have an actual store or is everything here based solely online?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, we have an actual brick-and-mortar store in Everett, WA. People actually walk in and buy stuff!
Our address is:
Homebrew Heaven
9109 Evergreen Way
Everett, WA 98204
Here is a video of our shop:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1a5fKvv8XI
Heck, you can actually call us on the phone, too! It's 425-355-8865. A person will actually answer as long as it's business hours!
1/20/2008 -- When will the baby hop plants be available for the public to grow their own? I had forgotten to get any last year but would like to grow some this year.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: They are now available! Typically, the fresh rootstock arrive to us about March 22nd. We sell them thru about May (or until we run out!)
6/6/2007 -- which hops can grow in Tampa a zone 9-10 we were moved to zone 10 last year due to the fact of less cold days lately
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Hops are not typcially grown anywhere near Florida. Commercially, hops are grown in the states of Washington, Idaho and Oregon...a long way from Tampa!
Not sure how well they would do for you, actually. They grow like weeds so they would probably GROW, but it isn't their normal habitat.
5/14/2007 -- can you provide the differences between these hop varieties? I am not too familiar with Rhizomes but i would like to ty planting them this season just to experiment.
Also til when do you sell these? I know that they are seasonal.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: We sell them until they are gone, and we expect that to be soon, like maybe in 2 weeks!
The differences in varieties are subtle, and more a matter of how the hops are actually used in brewing, as opposed to how they look or grow.
Of the ones we have remaining, Chinook and Centennial are considered more of a "bittering" hop. These are higher in alpha acids, and are used at the beginning of the boil. The others are more "aromatic" hops, and are typically used at the end of the boil. As far as how they GROW, the bittering varieties may be slightly more hardy and vigorous than the aromatic ones.
4/10/2007 -- Are these all female Rhizomes?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes.
11/5/2006 -- I live in Seattle, can I come and pick up the bottles in Everett? Do you have a "brick and mortar" store?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: You sure can. It is literally made of bricks and mortar, in South Everett. Our address is:
Homebrew Heaven
9109 Evergreen Way
Everett, WA 98204
425-355-8865
Hours are 10-6:30 M-F
and 9:30-5 on Saturdays
Here is a video of the place:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1a5fKvv8XI
Take a look around!
6/15/2006 -- how come you don't ship RHIZOMES internationally? can you recommend someone who does?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Because there are so many export/import requirements on selling live agricultural goods, such as rhizomes. Sorry, I don't know of anyone who does it.
5/13/2006 -- i was reading your Q&A on growing hops,
what the odds growing southern alaska (juneau)?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I have heard of it being done, provided you have a sunny spot and get them in the ground ASAP!
5/7/2006 -- What varity of hop is best grown in Fallon,Nevada? Are there more than just one?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: There are many different varieties of hops. We offer several. Any of them should do just fine, provided they get enough water.
4/12/2006 -- Can you show me a picture of hop plants that are grown from seeds? the seedling and the germination?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Sort of... but hops are not actually grown from seeds. They are
grown from root cuttings (rhizomes). Here are some pictures:
Growing up the side of a house 
A hop root (rhizome) 
Hop flowers
3/19/2006 -- Can you ship hop rhizomes to Washington
or is ban still on ???? 3/20/06
Response From Homebrew Heaven: We can now ship them.
3/16/2006 -- OOPS!! I didn't realize the rhizomes would be ready to ship this soon and I guess I should have requested a later ship date. Oh well! Can I keep them in a plastic bag in the crisper tray of the refridgerator until I can work the ground and get them planted? If not is there anything you can suggest? The site where I want to plant, should be thawed enough and be ready to work nicely, in about 2 weeks, especially if I cover it with black plastic to help warm the ground.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, they can be store at LEAST that long in the refrigerator. Just keep them loosely sealed in a plastic bag, and "mist" them occasionally if they look dry (maybe once a week or so).
3/10/2006 -- I have read in various places that the SAAZ hops are difficult to grow. If this is the case, what are the difficulties? I realize that there are options to the SAAZ but sometimes my German "bull headedness" get in the way of common sense and in this case, I want to grow them just because!
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Saaz isn't really "difficult to grow", it just yields fewer/smaller hop cones (flowers) per vine, (or per acre, if you are growing lots of them). That is why they are more expensive to buy. Saaz may be a little more suspectable to insect damage as well, but that seems to be true for any low alpha hop variety.
3/3/2006 -- do you think you might be getting the amarillo rhizomes next year, or in the future?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Probably in the future, but not this year.
What happens is that the "newer" varieties, like amarillo and magnum, are grown in limited amounts to test their popularity with breweries. When they are a commercial success, the growers need to increase the number of acres being grown. To do that, they need the rhizomes themselves, so they do not offer them to home brewers until they have established their own fields.
2/27/2006 -- How much water do these hop plants need?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The only thing they like better than water is sunlight. Given both, they grow like crazy. How much is that? Heck, we're brewers, not farmers, and we live in a wet climate so it's not a factor to us.
The hop growing capital of the U.S. is in Yakima, WA if that helps. It gets about 24-28 inches of rain a year. If you get less than THAT, there may be issues. Here is a link for more information:
http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/em4816/em4816.pdf
2/27/2006 -- No Magnum rhizomes?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Correct. They will not be available. Sorry.
2/25/2006 -- I am getting ready to preorder some Hop Rhizomes and I want to order what will grow best in my part of the country. I live in SW-Ohio. Are there any that will grow better then others here? I'm hoping that Cascade hops will grow here=) They are my favorite so far. I'm also going to buy your book on growing hops so that I can fully understand the process.
One other question.... I plan on planting these next to my shed as it is the only place I have to plant them. The shed is only 8-10ft high and I see that things like to grow higher. Will planting them next to the shed hinder their growth? I'm planning to purchase and install a lattice type system on the side of the shed so that I can guide them up the wall.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Cascades will do just fine there. Actually, they are all pretty close in terms of "hardiness". If you're concerned, the higher alpha hops like Chinook, Nuggett and Centenial seem to be the most robust overall. It could be that these are the most resistant to diseases.
A lattice system is probably unnecessary, the vines will follow up most anything, like twine. Your shed is pretty low, but it can be done. These plants often grow 20 ft, and even 30 ft under the right conditions. If you can train them to the top of the shed, and then run a twine or wire sideways from there, you will have better luck. Maybe to your house, or a nearby tree...? At the peak of the growing season, however, you will have to wrap them around the twine every couple of days. They like to grow vertically, not sideways.
2/22/2006 -- i live in israel, and i would like to grow hop.
will you sheep the hop rhizomes to israel?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: No, sorry. We only ship them within the U.S.
5/3/2005 -- What variety would grow best in Louisiana?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: It terms of "hardiness" they are all about the same.
5/3/2005 -- I live in Truckee Ca. Which variety should I plant and when. Is now ok to order and plant Its may 3 but still getting down pretty cold at night. the ground is thawed and warm
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I see you have ordered Chinook and Centennial. Both of these should do well. It's time to plant!
4/7/2005 -- Can you be more specific in your hop varieties? E.g., are your Hallertauer a Hersbrucker or a Mittelfrüh? Same for your Goldings?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: They all came to us from the Yakima, Washington area. Some refer to the Goldings as "Yakima Goldings", or "American Goldings" but they were originally from East Kent, in England.
Same thing with the Hallertauer variety. They were originally from the traditional German Hallertauer region, and are neither Hersbrucker or Mittelfruh. They are just referred to as "American Hallertauer".
3/26/2005 -- I live in Rhode Island. First, are there any native species of hops to the U.S.?
Second, are there any specific varities which will grow the best in my area?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Yes, ALL the hop plants (rhizomes) we sell are native to the U.S., and will grow well in Rhode Island. They grow like weeds here in Seattle, WA.
3/11/2005 -- Hey, when are those hops rhizomes going to be in? It's like spring out there already!
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Soon, soon. Today is March 17, and we don't have them yet. We're told that they are on the way, however.
3/9/2005 -- Will hops grow in Dallas, TX? The summers can get pretty warm..however the winters can also get below freezing. If it's possible what variety do you suggest?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Hop production is best between 35-55 deg lattitude. Freezing is certainly not an issue with hops. It looks like Big D is about 32 degrees. I suspect they will grow, just not as well as "up north". Keeping them moist might be the bigger issue.
2/23/2005 -- Are there any variety of hops that will go in central Florida?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Most will grow, just not as well as "up north".
4/6/2004 -- I was wondering if you can grow hops in pots, and if so, what size pot and what kind of soil should I use?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Only if your pot is very large. We have grown them in a wooden half-barrel with some success, but the roots would like to go much deeper than that. Remember, the plants themselves can get to be 25 feet high, or more. Such a plant requires a lot of roots!
It is my experience that these things will grow in just about any soil. Or gravel. Very tenacious things, actually. We sometimes joke that you just need to show them a picture of some dirt.
3/31/2004 -- Can -or should- hop plants be sprayed to prevent any diseases or insects? If so, what should be used?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: It is my experience that you can hardy kill the darn things anyway!
About the only time they are susceptable is when the first shoots come thru the ground. The first shoots are tasty, and in fact some people pickle and eat them that way. Kinda like asparagus...at this time, try to keep slugs and such away from them. Beyond that, they should be fine.
3/31/2004 -- I live in Santa Cruz, CA. Which hop variety should I order?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I would go with Willamette, Cascade or Chinook. They should all do well, however.
3/24/2004 -- I live in Santa Monica. Which hop variety should iI order? What is the difference among the varieties . I am growing hop for appearance only.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I would recommend Willamette, Cascade or Goldings for your area.
3/19/2004 -- I live in Maine just above the 45 degree parallel. I was just wondering if hops are grown with any luck this far North?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: No problem! Yakima (WA) is the hop growing capital of the U.S., and maybe the world. It is at 46°35'N. It gets lots of sunshine, but Maine is just fine for hops. Find a sunny spot and stand back.
3/13/2004 -- I live 20 miles North West of Atlanta, Georgia. We are above latitude 30 but well below latitude 35. Is there a variety of hops that well grow in the South.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: I suspect they will grow just fine, but we can't guarantee it. I know of no "southern" hop variety.
3/12/2004 -- I noticed in the question and answer section that you list goldings and columbus, and that they do not appear on the order link. I know what goldings is but, what about columbus? I have a listing in "t.N.C.J.o.H.B."(the New Complete Joy of Home Brweing) for a columbia, is that the same thing? Can we get them this year?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: We are able to offer them THIS year (2010)!
3/10/2004 -- Is there any way to tell what variety a plant is when it's growing? 3 years ago, I purchased two hop rhizomes - Cascade and Hallertauer and had them labeled, but they almost died. I gave one plant to my cousin, and planted one at my house, but now can't remember which variety I kept.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: The only way I know of is to compare the pictures of the flowers.
Here is a link:
http://www.hopunion.com/pics.html
Cascades look very much like the Chinooks you see in the pictures.
3/9/2004 -- I live in a very cold climate at 6000' (Truckee,CA) what is the most cold tolerant variety?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Colder than Yakima, Washington and Eastern Oregon? That's where the hop capital is. Winters often dip below 0 deg F in the winter.
I've notice that the higher alpha varieties seem to be more "hardy" than the low ones, so I'd recommend Chinook, Centennial or Nugget if there is a concern.
2/23/2004 -- If I purchase more than one variety, and plant them in roughly the same area, will cross-pollenation occur? Is it best to only grow one variety? If I plant along the side of my garage, will the supporting tendrils get established on their own, or do the plants have to be tied off to let the tendrils get going under the siding, like ivy?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: They are all the same sex, so each vine (actually, they are called bines) stays the same variety. No cross-pollination occurs. Because of this you can grow as many varieties as you like.
No, the hop vines needs something that they can coil around on their way up, like a wire or twine, post, lattice or structure so that they can climb. They don't send out tendrils as such, they coil around things...make sense? If you want them along your garage, you can run twines from the highest point down to the ground. The hop vines will follow them. I have seen vines over 30 feet high!
Hops can be trained to go sideways, as long as you are willing to go wrap them around something every few days, but they much prefer to go vertical!
11/2/2003 -- How can I order some hop rhizomes? Plus, I never see a link to click on to order any. Please inform me how to purchase some.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: They become available about March-April, when the new roots are dug up in the Yakima valley. When they are available, we will activate a clickable link.
10/16/2003 -- When will the new rhizomes become available?
Response From Homebrew Heaven: By about the middle of March or first of April...depending on the weather in Eastern Washington. They are dug up after the last frost.
10/3/2003 -- This may sound crazy, but I would like to try growing my own hops. Can you recommend a website or company that sells hop roots for growing at home. I have heard that cuttings or roots are the best way to grow them.
Response From Homebrew Heaven: Not crazy at all! You've found the website, as well. They are not listed (yet) because they are seasonal. We sell hundreds of hop rhizomes (roots) in the spring each year, when they are dug up in Eastern Washington. They typcially are offered from late March to early June. Very, very easy to grow, by the way.
Rhizomes go for about $5.00 each. Typically, we have about 12 varieties: Cascade, Willamette, Hallertauer, Saaz, Tettnanger, Mt. Hood, Nugget, Chinook, Fuggles, and perhaps a few others.
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