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Homebrew Heaven's American
Pilsner
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Approximate Starting Gravity: 1.035 - 1.045
Approximate Ending Gravity: 1.010 - 1.014
Approximate Bitterness: 6 - 8 IBU's
AVAILABLE: MAR thru MAY & SEP thru
DEC
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Ingredient Kit Instructions
This Beer Ingredient Kit makes 5 gallons of heavenly homebrew.
This is equivalent to about fifty-two 12 oz. Beers. Only the finest
ingredients are chosen and used in the making of this kit. Should
you have any questions regarding this kit, Homebrew Heaven of
Everett, WA will be happy to help you out. Our phone number is
(425) 355-8865 (local), or (800) 850-2739 if you are calling from
out of town.
American Pilsner is an “All-American Classic” beer. With a
crisp, light taste & a smooth finish, this Light, Blonde styled
Pilsner, will bring back memories from years past. Brew a batch
& make this your defense against any thirst war!
This Kit Contains:
1
Package of Light, Dry Malt Extract with Bittering hops already
mixed into the dry malt
1
Package containing Caramel Pils and Victory Malts (Specialty
Grains), along with a cheesecloth grain bag
1
Package of Flavoring hops
1
Package of Clarifier (use in the boil) 1-2 Package(s) of Lager
Yeast – 10g miminum
1
Package of Corn Sugar that is used to “prime” the beer just before
bottling
Equipment and Sanitation:
It is necessary to assure that EVERYTHING that comes in contact
with your lager wort after boiling is sanitary. By this, we mean
free from bacteria and other wild yeasts. Your brewpot, spoon and
wort chiller (if using one) will be sanitized by the boiling of
your ingredients, but from that point on, your fermentor, carboy,
airlock & stopper, etc., should be sanitized thoroughly. We
recommend an iodine-based product called Iodophor for this
purpose.
We
also recommend that your fermentation be done in a sealed container
with an airlock affixed to it (closed fermentation) to avoid
airborne bacteria. A sealed six-gallon (or larger), food-grade
bucket works great as a fermentor. If you add water to your
fermentor after the boil, it’s usually OK not to boil it, but if
you want to be absolutely certain of avoiding bacteria, you can
boil it ahead of time (be sure to cool it before using). Always
sanitize your siphon equipment (bottle filler, racking cane and
tubing) and bottles prior to bottling your beer. Bacteria
infections are rare, but most originate from the siphon
equipment.
INSTRUCTIONS
General Note: It is best to cook your entire batch of beer (6 – 6.3
gallons starting volume of water for a finished batch volume of 5
gallons after evaporation & trub removal). If your brewpot is
not big enough to do that, you can do a “concentrated boil” using 3
– 4 gallons of water to start with, adding the balance of (cooled)
water volume to the primary fermentor before pitching the yeast. In
other words, boil as much water as possible to start with. We
recommend using at least 3 gallons.
1.
Add the water to the brewpot. We like to start with about 6
gallons. See General Note above.
2.
Put the specialty grains into the muslin grain bag & tie a knot
at the top of the bag. Leave some room for the grains to “swish
around” within the bag. Suspend the filled bag in the water to
avoid scorching, or burning a hole in the bag & heat to between
165º F - 170º F. Be sure to occasionally give the bag a light
squeeze & use a teabag motion to help swish things around a
bit. When the water reaches 165º F - 170º F, remove the bag…it has
done its’ job. Exceeding 170º F will cause tannins to leach out of
the grains, which can make your beer astringent.
3.
Continue heating until the water comes to a boil. Now it’s time to
add the dry malt extract. You will have to add the contents slowly
while stirring to mix. We like to remove the brewpot from the heat
for this step, to prevent the malt from scorching at the bottom of
the brewpot. Dry malt takes a while to dissolve into the water.
Just keep stirring until the entire amount of malt has been emptied
into the pot.
4.
Now, bring the mixture back to a boil and make note of the time
when you have achieved a good rolling boil. You’ll be boiling your
mixture (now called wort) for one-hour total time from this point
on. This one-hour boil ensures a good breakdown of the malt &
hops. Ideally, you’ll maintain a nice rolling boil (not too
vigorously now) for the entire time. It is ESSENTIAL that you WATCH
FOR BOIL OVERS at this stage. Your beer will not be ruined, but a
boil over makes a BIG, STICKY MESS! Keep stirring the green stuff
(hops) back into the boil as they like to stick to the sides of the
brewpot.
5.
At 15 minutes before the end of the boil (45 minutes after the
start of the boil), it is time to add the package of Flavoring hops
and Clarifier Tablet. This addition adds a unique flavor and aids
in clarifying your finished beer. If you are going to be using a
wort chiller to cool your finished wort, you should place it into
the brewpot for the last 10 – 15 minutes of the boil to sterilize
it.
6.
At 60 minutes from the start of the boil, turn off the heat and
cool your wort as quickly as possible. The best way to cool your
wort is with a wort chiller. If you don’t have one, you can set
your brewpot in a sink full of ice water. A wort chiller will cool
your wort in a bout 15 minutes, whereas the “sink full of ice
water” method takes at least an hour, so leave the lid on the pot
to avoid airborne bacteria. If you boiled less than 5 gallons, you
can add cold water to help cool your wort. The point is, cool it
quickly, keeping the pot covered if possible! 7. When you wort has
cooled to 80, or below, it’s time to pour it into your primary
fermentor. Go ahead and splash your wort in order to aerate or
“oxygenate” your wort at this point. Yeast “like” a little oxygen
at this point ---- but never after. Don’t worry about the residue.
It is protein and hop residue (called “trub”). Now you should take
a “starting gravity” reading (approx.1.035 – 1.045), using your
hydrometer and test jar. If you record this number, you can use it
to determine your actual alcohol per volume at bottling. After
pouring the wort into your primary fermentor and taking a
hydrometer reading, you can add (“pitch”) your yeast. When using
the dry yeast that came with the kit, either stirring the yeast
into the wort, or sprinkling it on top will work just fine. We
usually just sprinkle it on top. While you can make a yeast starter
following the directions on the yeast package, it is not necessary.
Be sure to put a tight sealing lid on the fermentor & use an
airlock.
IMPORTANT NOTICE – PLEASE READ ACTIVE
FERMENTATIONS
When brewing conditions are ideal; fresh malts and / or grains,
good boil, well oxygenated wort, correct pitching temperature for
yeast, fresh yeast, and consistent fermenting temperatures, the
fermentation can be very active. Large amounts of malts such as you
find in higher gravity beers, can also result in an overactive
ferment. When this happens it is not uncommon for your wort to exit
out through your airlock usually clogging the airlock causing
pressure to build up inside your fermentor. If the pressure builds
too high before primary fermentation subsides, the lid and / or
airlock on your fermentor can very well blow off, spraying your
precious beer all over the room & ceiling. What a messy clean
up!!! To avoid this, we advise using a “blow off” tube consisting
of at least 3 feet of ½” minimum to 1” diameter tubing placed
through the opening of your plastic or glass fermentor in place of
your airlock and rubber stopper. Do NOT extend the tubing end too
far into the fermentor. Leave at least 2” between the end of the
tubing & the fermenting wort. Place the other end of the tubing
into a small container of water. A pint or 2 of water should do.
Once fermentation has subsided (little or no bubbles in your
container of water) you can remove the tubing & replace the
airlock & stopper for the remainder of the fermentation. Be
sure to clean & sanitize your airlock & stopper as well as
the tubing.
8.
At this point, it is best to keep your fermentor at about room
temperature (65 - 75) until you see some activity (bubbling) in
your airlock. This may take from 8 – 36 hours with dry yeast. Be
sure to fill your airlock halfway to provide a barrier between your
wort and potential “invading” bacteria. Since this kit contains a
lager yeast, you can either continue the fermentation at room
temperature, or you can move the fermentor into a cool place.
Lagers are improved if you can move them into a cool place
(preferably about 40 - 55 F.. Moving to a cool place causes the
fermentation to slow down, and to produce a more “authentic” lager
beer.
9.
How long can you expect the fermentation to last? That depends on
temperature, the freshness of the yeast and many other factors. At
room temperature, the fermentation may take place in 2 – 3 days. At
a cooler temperature, it may take 2 – 3 weeks. These are only
estimates. In any case, wait for the bubbling in the airlock to
slow down to perhaps one “bubble” or less, per minute (again…only
an estimate) before transferring the beer to another container
(Typical gravity readings at this point would be between 1.020 –
1.030). This is called a “secondary fermentation” and serves to
clarify and “condition”, or age your beer. Homebrew Heaven likes to
use a glass carboy for this step, although another plastic bucket
will do just fine.
10. Transfer the beer by siphoning off the clear beer leaving
all the trub (crud) behind. There is no need to strain out the trub
– leave it in the bottom of the primary bucket. Give it to your
garden, compost, or just toss in the garbage can. We’re after clear
beer here, remember?
11. After the bubbling has completely ceased in your secondary
fermentor, it is time to bottle your beer. Make sure there is at
least 3 minutes between each “bubble” through your airlock before
bottling. A more sure method of determining if it is time to bottle
would be to take 2 or 3 consecutive hydrometer readings, 1 each day
for 2 – 3 days. When your readings stay the same without changing
(“ending gravity” reading approx. 1.010 – 1.014), it is time to
bottle. This ensures that there is no residual malt left to
ferment. You will be adding corn sugar when you bottle in order to
provide the right amount of carbonation. If there is still malt
extract to ferment, you could have over-carbonated beer, or worse
yet, exploding bottles. 12. To bottle, siphon off the good stuff –
clear beer, into another sanitized container. Your primary
fermentor works fine for this. Next, stir the package of corn sugar
into about 16 oz. of lukewarm water until it dissolves. Add this
mixture to the beer and stir gently to mix. Siphon your beer into
sterilized bottles, leaving about ¾” of headspace in each bottle
and apply your caps to the bottles. 13. Your beer will be ready to
drink sooner if you place your bottles in a warm (room temperature)
place. Allow about 7 - 14 days before trying one if you do this. If
you leave your bottles in a cool place (60º; any cooler & your
beer may not carbonate properly) you should allow an extra week or
so. Be sure to store your bottles out of direct sunlight, or it
will get a “skunky” smell if you do. Your beer will get better and
better with aging, but who can wait? Enjoy! You can make more,
right?
We
sincerely hope you have enjoyed your American Pilsner kit! Let us
know what you think!!
Variations
1. Try using the Wyeast American Lager #2035 liquid yeast culture
(available at Homebrew Heaven) in place of the dry ale yeast. This
American lager yeast strain will take longer, but will provide the
dry, crisp finish that is characteristic of this
style.
2. Try storing your American Pilsner in the refrigerator after the
initial week or two that it takes to provide the carbonation. Your
beer will continue to “lager”, or improve for months to
come.
3. Try adding a pound of light colored honey to the last 2 minutes
of the boil. This will add a little more alcohol to your beer and
will lighten the color as well.
4. Try using 1.5 cups of light DME (available at Homebrew Heaven)
in place of the corn sugar when bottling. This will add a little
more malt flavor and give your beer a creamier, dense head, however
doing this can greatly increase the time it takes to carbonate.
This can be done with any beer.
Homebrew Heaven
9109 Evergreen Way
Everett, WA 98204
(425) 355-8865
(800) 850-2739
E-mail: brewheaven@aol.com
Average Rating: (From
13 Reviews):
Read Complete Reviews
|
Submit a Review
Great Brew!
From
Tim Labishak of
Albany, Georgia
on
3/30/2008.
AWESOME!!
From
Anonymous of
Oxford, Mississippi
on
2/23/2008.
Very Good
From
American Dave of
Cloverdale, California
on
7/15/2007.
Very good
From
Dave Banker of
Flora, Illinois
on
6/10/2007.
Good BEER
From
Charles Peterson of
Birdsnest, Virginia
on
4/25/2007.
Great beer!
From
Ed Skelly of
Bowman, Georgia
on
3/17/2007.
SMOOTH AND REFRESHING, GREAT BREW
From
Anonymous of
royston, Georgia
on
3/15/2007.
Man thats some good stuff
From
Jeff of
Yelm, Washington
on
2/6/2007.
Ages with time
From
Carl Davis of
Yorktown, Virginia
on
10/17/2005.
Great Brew!!
From
Ed of
Petoskey, Michigan
on
9/11/2004.
Clean, Crisp, and AWESOME!!
From
Kevin of
Tooele, Utah
on
3/31/2004.
Really good
From
Edward Meyer of
FPO, Armed Forces Pacific
on
2/24/2004.
Excellent Flavor
From
Jeff of
Altus, Oklahoma
on
12/19/2003.
Read Complete Reviews |
Submit a Review
Read Complete Questions & Answers
|
Ask a Question
2/18/2010
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I have my stout in the primary, just about to transfer to the secondary. I added oats to the boil and am thinking about putting some coffee and a vanilla bean into the secondary. What would be the best way to do this and do you think it would be too much??
9/3/2009
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Is it possible to hop a bock beer more to give it a more balanced taste? and if so which hops would give such a end result? P.S. not a computer savvy guy, e-mail address is my wife cut me some slack on the name.
8/1/2009
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I just finished my first batch of wheat beer and have transfered it to the primary, it's been about 28 hours and i've only noticed about 1 bubble per minute in the airlock. Is the yeast doing it's job or should I add another packet? Also a solid layer of sludge has formed on the surface of the beer, is this normal? Cheers!
9/7/2008
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I am a big fan of your ingredient kits but have noticed that the selection has been very low lately. Why are some of your best ingredient kits no longer available?
4/27/2008
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what are the pros and cons of the dry yeast included in your ingredient kits vs the optional wet yeast culture? i'm especially interested in whether one produces more alcohol over the other and viability of the yeasts after shipping, and i welcome any other info you care to share.
3/12/2008
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On the directions to your kits it is stated that the beer will get better with aging. I've brew a few of your kits and I would like to know the proper way to age the beers. I've brewed the west coast blonde Ale, Diamond Knot IPA, Steadfast scottish Ale, and the Kangaroo Tail Ale.
Thank You,
John Newman
3/2/2008
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I brewed the American Pilsner using dry yeast about 4 weeks ago - primary fermentation took about 4 days and secondary about 2 weeks (secondary fermentation temp was around 40 degrees). OG 1.035 - FG 1.010. I opened the first bottle today and the carbination seemed a little weak. I used all the priming sugar that came with the kit and let the bottles sit at room temp (around 72 degrees) for about . . .
2/19/2008
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i purchased the brown ale, followed the directions but it's ben over 10 days and im still not getting any bubbles through the air lock. Beer temp is aprox 68 to70 degrees,what do you think?
1/26/2008
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I live about an hour (if traffic is good) from the address on your website. Do you have an actual store or is everything here based solely online?
1/19/2008
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The American Pilsner is the first "light colored beer" ive brewed. Its in the fermentor now, about 24 hours. all seems well but underneath the foam theres some semi-floating clouds of something. Is this the yeast?....its probably normal but ive never seen due the darker beers...
12/16/2007
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Hello , just started the American pilsner kit,have not noticed any activity in the air lock yet after almost 48 hours, the kit was delivered on a very warm day in August and set in the heat for quite a few
hours before I got home from work, how long should I wait before deciding that the yeast might be dead. Thanks , Eric.
12/12/2007
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I have just started my first brew which is the american pilsner. My question is- I now have the wort in the primary fermenter. I began to see bubbles in the air lock at about 24 hours, but then the next morning it stopped bubbling. Is this normal?
12/8/2007
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Just thinking about getting started in this thirst quenching hobby but I prefer a lite beer i.e. Miller Lite, Bud Select, Coor's Light etc... And not sure what indgredient pack would be close to those. If i am able to find something that is quite close i will be ordering a system for doing 10gals at a time. By the way great web site!!
6/25/2007
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I am eager to bounce into the world of Home Brewing. What type of beer should I attempt to brew first, if I am a rookie at this? Should I attempt bottling first, then move onto kegging? Thanks, and Happy Brewing!
6/1/2007
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I ordered a kit of American Pilsner and it was fantastic! I make a few different types of beer and I already order from you and use all the ingredients in this kit. Is there any way you can provide me the type and amount of hops you use in this kit? That way I can use my leftovers and put it into this beer. Thanks!
5/7/2007
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I am brewing the American Lager. I am in the secondary fermination, and I have consistant readings on the hydrometer. The problem is that I can't really get the temperature down below 65 degrees. I want that smooth, lager taste but I am afraid that the temp has been to high. Can I bottle the beer and store it cold to let the lagering take place? Any answers or suggestions would be great. Thanks . . .
3/15/2007
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I have reciently purchased three of your kits. I was wondering if it would cause any problems adding 16 ounces of honey to any of the kits during the boil,can the yeast handle this, or would it be best to upgrade the yeast? How would this affect my finished beer?
1/25/2007
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My first brew! First fermentation took 3 days. Been in carboy now for 4 days - no more activity - so I took a hydrometer reading - now at 1.010 original was at 1.042. Could it be ready for kegging? Seems crazy fast. This is the American Pilsner by the way. Great site!
1/15/2007
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I just brewed your St. Pete's Pilsner, needless to say, I'm getting impatient waiting to try it. But my question is as follows: I would like to know the weights of the malts, grains, hops, irish moss, and yeast used to make batch. Could you inform on that? I am trying to keep a record and I failed to do that myself. Thanks.
1/8/2007
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I just brewed my first batch (St. Peter's Pilsner) and I think my impatience got the best of me. I placed the primary fermentor in my basement with a room temp at 55 degrees (approx. 6 days). I misread the directions as to when to switch the beer into the secondary fermentor. There was one bubble every 40 seconds, I didn't wait for the one bubble/minute or less. Is it ruined or is there something . . .
1/6/2007
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My batch of Vanilla Wiezen has been in the secondary fermenter for about a week now and I have not seen any bubbling. Is it possible that all the fermentation took place in the primary? What kind of reading am I looking for in the Wiezen prior to bottling? My first reading was 1.042. Thanks for the help.
1/3/2007
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I see you get questions refering to this quite a bit. After 3 days we haven't seen any bubbling, and I made sure my seal was good again after reading, and it seems to be. I still ask because we had to alter the procedure a little to accommodate our indoor equipment. I could only use 2 gallons of water initially, but other than that followed everything else exactly. We also used the Wyeast Scottish . . .
12/30/2006
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I have started brewing a batch of Shamrock Irish stout, it has been 72 hours and I have seen minimal productivity in the primary fermenter (1 major bubble from the air lock). The temp in the area of fermantation is approx. 68 degrees, my starting SG was 1.046, i am worried that nothing is occurring. should I transfer to carboy or take a reading first and then transfer? also, what's the best procedure . . .
6/20/2006
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i just 3 days ago threw the american pilsner into the second fermenter but it hasn't started ''bubbling'' yet. is there something wrong???
4/9/2006
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With your recipe kits, what would happen if i added the hopped extract to the water in the at the same time i added the specialty grains and started heating? I don't really like moving 6 gallons of boiling water off a cooker to prevent scorching the extract and thought adding the extract right at the start would help.
3/26/2006
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I brewed Procrastinator Bock at the end of last year, and I'm really enjoying the fruits of my labor. I'm down to about 12 bottles... :(
Anyway, I want to brew another batch, but I'm ready to try a little bit of manipulation of the original recipe in order to tweak it. Do you have the original recipe quantities so I can modify it slightly?
3/26/2006
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Delayed fermenting question...For three days, my IPA was happily bubbling along when we got a cold snap.. Then there was a decrease in fermenting for a good 2 days or so, even though I moved the primary fermenter inside from the garage. Will this affect taste adversely? Should I rack it into the secondary fermenter earlier/later or anything? Or toss the whole batch and start fresh?
Thanks . . .
2/20/2006
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I just finished the ESB kit. When I put the wort into the primary I had to add water in order to bring the level up to 5 gallons. So I added the water and took a SG reading and only got about a 1030 reading. Do you think that I grabbed some of the water in my sample and that is why the reading is low?
Is there anything I should do now? The batch seems to be bubbling away nicely.
8/7/2005
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I just started and this is the first beer I have brewed. Being a beginner, I of course made a mistake. I didn't put in the Irish Moss, but everything else I did according to the directions. What kind of effect will this have on the beer?
5/23/2005
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is the american pilsner a lager? and if it is should i let it ferment at a cooler temperature than normal like the st. peter's pilsner suggests you do?
5/19/2005
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When adding the priming sugar to any beer should you boil it in water before adding it to the beer?
5/16/2005
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i just asked a question but forgot to ask about your kits. Do the kits come with all the ingredients that i need or do i need to buy other ingredents to make my beer? and thanx again,i noticed that you don't try to sell people needless products when they ask you questions about home brewing. you just want to help people make better beer at home.
5/16/2005
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My American Pilsner has been in the first fermentation stage for almost 48hrs now and is not even close to 1 min. between the bubbles. Is there another way to measure if the beer is ready for the second fermentation stage? Would a gravity reading with the hydrometer give me any help with this matter?
5/14/2005
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I will soon be moving my American Pilsner to the second fermentation stage and was wondering about the recommended temperature. I know for the St. Pete’s you could have the option of producing more of a “lager” taste if you set it in temperatures around 40 deg. F. Being another Pilsner (American Pilsner) would it be ok to set this batch in a cooler tem. like around 40 deg.? If this path of cooler temps. . . .
5/13/2005
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I am planning on making a batch of the American Pilsner and was wondering about the pound of honey you could add in the last 2 min of boil. Could you give me a ball park figure of how much this would increase the alcohol content by?
11/2/2004
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My friend and I have recently purchased your Belgian Ale kit. We followed all the proper steps to ensure a good brew, things were going well until the onset of Hurricane Ivan. Our brew was in the first stage primary fermentation. It has been there for a little over a month and a half. Can we proceed normally from here and actually produce a good product or should we consider this batch- botched and . . .
5/16/2004
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I noticed in the recipes from "Capturing Beer" that the author recommends using less bittering hops when brewing up a full 5 gallons (instead of boiling 2-3 gallons and adding water to the primary). Do you recommend tinkering with the bittering hops of your kits (St. Pete's, etc) when boiling up a full 5 gallons of wort in the brewpot?
4/9/2004
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I have your St Peter's Pilsner kit but desire some info not found in kit. Two questions....
Is there a full 5 lbs of the dry malt in the package ??
What bitterness rating may I expect using your recipe exactly to the best of my ability ?? I've 8 years brew experience.
4/8/2004
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Started my secondary fermentation yesterday and think I may have a problem. Rinsed the carboy with idophor but think I may have had to much residual foam in the bottle and I beleive it killed the batch. Still bubbling, but a distinct line of demarcation between the top of the batch and bottom. Top is dark and bottom is light. Brewing the american pilsner. Is it ruined??? Now what????
3/25/2004
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I am returning to home brewing after about 10 years off - don't ask! I made several batches of a kit called something like "Irish Ale" which was suggested by the retailer where I bought my original supplies. It was amber colored and well received by all. My understanding was that pilzners and ales could be made without cooling, lagers and stouts required cooler temps. (50 deg or so). . . .
3/23/2004
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I am a beginning homebrewer and I am trying to determine the Alcohol by Volume of your beer kits. How you you go about using the specific gravities (starting/ending) to determine the alcohol by volume?
3/16/2004
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I have a batch of pilsner that has finished the fermentation process and has been sitting and waiting for me to bottle for months (due to constraints on my time during tax season). Is there any danger of spoilage or of the beer not carbonating properly once I'm able to bottle it? Generally speaking, is there a specific time frame within which the beer absolutely has to be bottled? Thanks for your . . .
3/13/2004
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1. For a first time home brewer, is there a recipe that is cheap and easy, like only one thing to mix with the water? I want to have a test run to make sure I have the steps and the sterilization right, even if it makes a run of the Mill(er) style beer. I do not want to waste $30 on a good ale kit and turn it to vinegar as a learning experiment when I could just waste $5 of malt syrup!
I have . . .
2/29/2004
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My American Pilsner was about 2 1/2 weeks into the fermentation and the bubbling has slowed down. However, the airstop was accidentally knocked out of the lid, causing the loss of air pressure. I sterilized and replaced the stop, and let it sit for another week. I have seen no bubbing since.
Is the interruption going to affect the batch?
2/26/2004
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Using the American Pilsner kit, I boiled my wort on 2/18 then cooled with a chiller to just below 80F. My starting grav. was 1.042 then I added the enzyme and yeast. I never noticed any bubbles in the airlock and after four days checked a hydometer reading. It was 1.009 so I siphoned the beer into my glass carboy. I still haven't noticed any bubbles (didn't really expect to with the 1.009 reading) . . .
2/20/2004
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what ingredient kit do i have to buy thats
close to the taste of coors light or bud light?
1/24/2004
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I am using your Americam Pilsner. My question is: my wort is pretty dark. I used a kitchen stove to heat my wort and I used a full 6 gallons, so it took almost an hour to get to the 170°F, and time to remove the grain. Is this long time what caused the wort to be dark? Is my brew ruined?
1/4/2004
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I have started a batch of this beer (St Peter's Pilsner) and have the primary fermatation going in a cool place, but at what temparture should the secondary take place.
12/27/2003
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A while back you answered a question about adding blackberries to make a blackberry wheat. How about adding cranberries for a cranberry wheat?
11/30/2003
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Is it possible to modify this or any other recipe as to gain a higher gravity or alcohol content in a lighter ale?
11/26/2003
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I recently bought Shamrock Stout. The bubbles were down to under a minute within 2 days, which is when I transferred to the secondary carboy. The bubbles aren't apparent now... which leads me to believe I should add more yeast. The temperature was 78 f at initial yeast introduction, yet now I am concerned that the yeast was not good... Should I add another packet now, or am I thinking too much about . . .
11/9/2003
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What is the life span of the beer (period of expiration)
10/12/2003
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I FELT LIKE THE BREW KITS I'VE BOUGHT IN THE PAST LACKED A PUNCH (ALCOHOL CONTENT). WILL USING DME INSTEAD OF SUGAR LOWER THE ALCOHOL CONTENT? HOW STRONG SHOULD I EXPECT MY BEER TO BE BREWING YOUR KITS, I.P.A.AND ST.PETERS PILSNER, ALSO APPROXiMATELY HOW MUCH LONGER TILL DRINKABILITY OR CARBONATION THAN CORN SUGAR? THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP TODAY PLANNING ON ORDERING MY EQUIMENT AND BEER KITS AFTER . . .
9/20/2003
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I ordered some of this with the liquid yeast here recently. When in the initial brewing stage, I mixed in the liquid yeast as per instuctions, and 24 hours into the brew, I saw no action at all in the check valve, so I removed the check valve, and added the dry yeast I had that also came with the package. Upon entering the secondary fermentation stage, there seems to be a slightly different odor than . . .
8/2/2003
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What is the approx. amount of alcohol content in these beers? Just so I know what to expect when I brew it.
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